New Zealand -- Description and travel; New Zealand -- History
moment to lose if they were to regain some lower point of comparative
security; for March is the first month of autumn in South New Zealand,
and the evenings then begin to draw in. So Mr. Green had to retreat
when within either a few score feet or a few score yards of the actual
goal. As it was, night closed in on the party when they were but a
short way down, and they spent the dark hours on a ledge less than two
feet wide, high over an icy ravine. Sleep or faintness alike meant
death. They stood there hour after hour singing, stamping, talking, and
listening to the rain pattering on rock and hissing on snow. All night
long the wind howled: the wall at their backs vibrated to the roar of
the avalanches: water streaming down its face soaked their clothing.
For food they had three meat lozenges each. They sucked at empty
pipes, and pinched and nudged each other to drive sleep away. By the
irony of fate it happened that close beneath them were wide and almost
comfortable shelves. But night is not the time to wander about the face
of a precipice, looking for sleeping berths, 10,000 feet above the sea.
Mr. Green and his guides were happy to escape with life and limb, and
not to have to pay such a price for victory as was paid by Whymper’s
party after scaling the Matterhorn.
Mr. Green’s climb, the tale of which is told easily in his own bright
and workmanlike book, gave an enlivening shock to young New Zealand.
It had been left to a European to show them the way; but the lesson
was not wasted. They now understood that mountains were something
more than rough country, some of which carried sheep, while some did
not. They learned that they had an alpine playground equal to any in
the Old World--a new realm where danger might be courted and exploits
put on record. The dormant spirit of mountaineering woke up at last.
Many difficulties confronted the colonial lads. They had everything
to learn and no one to teach them. Without guides, equipment, or
experience--without detailed maps, or any preliminary smoothing of the
path, they had to face unforeseen obstacles and uncommon risks. They
had to do everything for themselves. Only by endangering their necks
could they learn the use of rope and ice-axe. Only by going under
fire, and being grazed or missed by stones and showers of ice, could
they learn which hours of the day and conditions of the weather were
most dangerous, and when slopes might be sought and when ravines must
be shunned. They had to teach themselves the trick of the _glissade_
and the method of crossing frail bridges of snow. Appliances they
could import from Europe. As for guides, some of them turned guides
themselves. Of course they started with a general knowledge of the
climate, of “roughing it” in the hills, and of life in the open. They
could scramble to the heights to which sheep scramble, and could turn
round in the wilderness without losing their way. Thews and sinews,
pluck and enthusiasm, had to do the rest, and gradually did it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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