CHAPTER XVIII.—Return to Granada—A Ball in Honor of “El Ministro”—The Funambulos—Departure for Rivas or Nicaragua—Hills of Scoriæ—The Insane Girl and the Brown Samaritan—A Way-side Idol—Mountain Lakes and Strange Birds—A Sudden Storm—Take Refuge among the “Vaqueros”—Inhospitable Reception—Night Ride; Darkness and Storm—Friendly Indians—Indian Pueblo of Nandyme—The Hacienda of Jesus Maria—An Astonished Mayor Domo—How to get a Supper—Jicorales—Ochomogo—Rio Gil Gonzales—The “Obraje”—Rivas and its Dependencies—Señor Hurtado—His Cacao Plantation—The City—Effect of Earthquakes and of Shot—Attack of Somoza—Another American—His attempt to cultivate Cotton on the Island of Ometepec—Murder of his Wife—Failure of his Enterprize—A Word about Cotton Policy—The Antiquities of Ometepec—Aboriginal Burial Places—Funeral Vases—Relics of Metal—Golden Idols—A Copper Mask—Antique Pottery—A Frog in Verd Antique—Sickness of my Companions—The Pueblo of San Jorge—Shore of the Lake—Feats of Horsemanship—Lance Practice—Visit Potosi—Another Remarkable Relic of Aboriginal Superstition—The Valley of Brito—An Indigo Estate—Cultivation of Indigo—Village of Brito—A Decaying Family and a Decayed Estate—An Ancient Vase—Observations on the Proposed Canal—Return alone to Granada—Despatches—A forced March to Leon, 491 CHAPTER XIX.—Volcanoes of Central America; their Number—Volcano of Jorullo—Isalco—The Volcanic Chain of the Marabios—Infernales—“La Baila de Los Demonios”—Volcanic Outburst on the Plain of Leon—Visit to the New Volcano, and Narrow Escape—Baptizing a Volcano—Eruption of Coseguina—Celebration of its Anniversary—Synchronous Earthquakes—Late Earthquakes in Central America—Volcano of Telica—El Volcan Viejo—Subterranean Lava Beds—Activity of the Volcanoes of the Marabios in the 16th Century—The Phenomena of Earthquakes—Earthquake of Oct. 27, 1849—Volcanic Features of the Country—Extinct Craters—Volcanic Lakes—The Volcano of Nindiri or Masaya—Descent into it by the Fray Blas de Castillo—Extraordinary Description, 525 CHAPTER XX.—Christmas—Nacimientos—The Cathedral on Christmas Eve—Midnight Ceremonies—An Alarm—Attempt at Revolution—Fight in the Plaza—Triumph of Order—The Dead—Melancholy Scenes—A Scheme of Federation, 551 CHAPTER XXI.—The “Paseo al Mar”—Preparations for the Annual Visit to the Sea—The Migration—Impromptu Dwellings—Indian Potters—The Salines—The Encampment—First Impressions—Contrabanda—Old Friends—The Camp by Moonlight—Practical Jokes—A Brief Alarm—Dance on the Shore—Un Juego—Lodgings, Cheap and Romantic—An Ocean Lullaby—Morning—Sea Bathing—Routine of the Paseo—Divertisements—Return to Leon, 561