Public interest, and especially American interest in Nicaragua must therefore constantly increase; and the desire to know the characteristics of the country, its scenery and products, and the habits and customs of its people, can never diminish. In the Narrative which follows, these are faithfully presented; and though, in some cases, there may be a needless amplitude of incidents, yet even this is probably not without its use in relieving descriptions and details which might otherwise prove dry and repulsive in form. In all essential respects, Nicaragua is little changed since 1850, and since a later visit of the author in 1854. It is true, Granada has been added to its list of ruined cities, and Rivas and Masaya bear the scars of battles on their walls. The people have perhaps a more thoughtful look, as becomes men realizing that the fulness of time has finally brought them within the circle of the world’s movement, and that they must assume and discharge the responsibilities of their new position, or give place to those who are equal to the requirements of this age and prompt to recognize their duties to their fellow men. But in all other respects, as I have said, the country is unchanged. Its high and regular volcanic cones, its wooded plains, broad lakes, bright rivers, and emerald verdure are still the same. The _aguadora_ still steps along firmly under her heavy water jar, or climbs, panting, up the cliffs that surround the Lake of Masaya. The naked children, in average color possibly a shade lighter than before, still bestride the hips of nurse or mother. Small and pensive mules still trudge to market, ears and feet alone visible beneath their green loads of _sacate_. The _mozo_ and his _machete_, the red-belted cavalier, on scarlet _pillion_, pricking his champing horse through the streets, the languid Señora puffing the smoke of her cigaretta in lazy jets through her nostrils—the sable priest, with _gallo_ under his arm, hurrying to the nearest cock pit—the shrill _quien vive_ of the bare-footed sentinel—the rat-tat-too of the afternoon drum—the eternal Saints’ days, and banging _bombas_—all, all are the same! NEW YORK, September, 1859 [Illustration: MAP OF NICARAGUA Showing its DEPARTMENTAL DIVISIONS and proposed Routes of INTEROCEANIC COMMUNICATION By E. G. Squier. 1860 ] NARRATIVE. ---------- CHAPTER I.