But two meals a-day are eaten by the inhabitants at large. A cup of coffee or chocolate is served at the bedside, or immediately upon rising in the morning. Breakfast follows at nine or ten o’clock in the forenoon, and dinner at three or four in the afternoon. Tea is only drunk by foreigners, and by them to a very limited extent. It is not to be found therefore in any of the shops. A cup of chocolate, or more frequently a cup of _tiste_ (parched corn ground with chocolate and sugar and mixed with water), passed unceremoniously in the evening, supplies its place, and is not an unacceptable substitute. It should be mentioned, however, that large quantities of “dulces,” literally “sweets” or sweetmeats are eaten between meals, especially by the women. The Spanish taste for “dulces” long ago passed into a proverb, but it rather surpasses itself in Nicaragua. The venders of “dulces,” generally bright Indian girls, gaily dressed, and bearing a tray, covered with the purest white napkins, and temptingly spread, upon their heads, pass daily from house to house; and it is sometimes difficult, and always ungallant to refuse purchasing something, however trifling, from their stock. The “mil gracias Señor!” in the silverest of voices, is always worth the money, and so one gets the “dulces” gratis. They sometimes, however, trespassed a little upon my good nature, and carried off more of my loose change than was proper, considering that, having a reasonable regard for my stomach, I never ate any of their dyspeptic compounds. Leon has little trade beyond the supply of its local wants. The principal import and export business for this portion of the state is done in the large and flourishing town of Chinandega, situated within two leagues of the port of Realejo. Its shops are nevertheless well supplied, and it has some wealthy merchants. Its principal inhabitants, however, are “propietarios,” owners of large estates which are carried on through agents. Attempts have recently been made to augment the commercial importance of Leon by opening a shorter and direct communication with Realejo; but its interior position will always prove a bar to its progress in this respect. Chinandega has already a start, which it will doubtless keep, unless a town, more favorably situated nearer the port, should spring up under the requirements of commerce. Since the above was written, a new town called “Corinth,” has been laid out on the south shore of the harbor of Realejo, in the direction of Leon, which will greatly benefit the latter city. [Illustration: MACHETE AND TOLEDO.] CHAPTER X.