Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canalSquier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
History
Nicaragua : $b its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canal
Squier, E. G. (Ephraim George)
Nicaragua; Nicaragua -- Description and travel; Nicaragua Canal (Nicaragua)
THE VICINITY OF LEON—THE BISHOP’S BATHS—FUENTE DE AXUSCO—“CERRO DE LOS
AMERICANOS”—A MILITARY BALL AND CIVIC DINNER—GEN. GUERRERO—OFFICIAL
VISIT FROM THE INDIAN MUNICIPALITY OF SUBTIABA—SIMON ROQUE—A
SECRET—ADDRESS AND REPLY—VISIT RETURNED—THE CABILDO—AN EMPTY
TREASURY—“SUBTIABA, LEAL Y FIEL”—ROYAL CEDULAS—FORMING A
VOCABULARY—“UNA DECIMA”—THE INDIANS OF NICARAGUA; STATURE;
COMPLEXION; DISPOSITION; BRAVERY; INDUSTRY; SKILL IN THE
ARTS—MANUFACTURE OF COPPER—PRIMITIVE MODE OF SPINNING—TYRIAN
PURPLE—PETATES AND HAMMOCKS—POTTERY—“AGUACALES,” AND
“JICARAS,”—COSTUME—ORNAMENTS—ABORIGINAL INSTITUTIONS—THE CONQUEST OF
NICARAGUA—ENORMITIES PRACTISED TOWARDS THE INDIANS—PRESENT CONDITION
OF THE INDIANS—THE SEQUEL OF SOMOZA’S INSURRECTION—BATTLES OF THE
OBRAJE AND SAN JORGE—CAPTURE AND EXECUTION OF SOMOZA—MODERATE POLICY
OF THE GOVERNMENT—RETURN OF GEN. MUNOZ—MEDALS—FESTIVAL OF
PEACE—NOVEL PROCESSION—A BLACK SAINT.
The country adjacent to Leon is very fine, and the “paseos” or rides in
the vicinity, although lacking an important element of beauty, the
proximity of water, are not without variety and interest. My first
expedition on horseback was to a place called the Bishop’s Baths. We
rode through the barrio de San Juan, where the _carreteros_ most do
congregate to the edge of the northern ravine. Here we found a path
literally shut in with cactuses and trees covered with vines, which led
to the ruins of an ancient gateway, beyond which had once been the
suburban seat of the Bishops of Nicaragua. It was a beautiful spot; the
ground had been artificially smoothed, and beneath the large trees which
shadowed over it, were the remains of stone seats, and of pedestals
which had once sustained crosses and the statues of the saints. In front
of where the house had stood, before its destruction during the troubles
of the revolutionary period, there was an abrupt slope to the stream at
the bottom of the ravine. This slope had formerly been terraced, and
descended by a winding way. The baths were of stone, and although now in
ruins, still gave evidences of the taste and luxury which had led to
their construction. A couple of women, naked with the exception of a
single cloth around their loins, were washing in the principal bath, but
they vacated it temporarily at our request, and we took possession. The
seclusion of the place, the limpid purity of the water, and the deep
shade in which everything was shrouded, enchanted me with the spot, and
I could not help thinking that it must have been selected by one of the
rosiest and jolliest of the old bishops whose portraits had tipped me a
friendly wink from the walls of the heavy room where they were
imprisoned in the cathedral. But I afterwards found that this was but
one only of a thousand equally beautiful spots in the neighborhood of
the city. That, however, to which my memory reverts most frequently, is
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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