AMUSEMENTS IN LEON—COCK FIGHTING—“PATIO DE LOS GALLOS”—DECLINE OF THE COCK PIT—GAMING—BULL BAITING—NOVEL RIDING—“UNA SAGRADA FUNCION,” OR MYSTERY—A POEM, AND A DRAMA—“UNA COMPANIA DE FUNAMBULOS,” OR ROPE DANCERS—GREAT ANTICIPATIONS—A NOVEL THEATRE—THE PERFORMANCE—“LA JOVENA CATALINA,” AND THE “ECCENTRIC CLOWN, SIMON,”—“TOBILLOS GRUESOS,” OR “BIG ANKLES.”—“FIESTAS,” AND SAINTS’ DAYS—THE “FIESTA” OF ST. ANDREW—DANCE OF THE DEVILS—UNEARTHLY MUSIC—ALL-SAINTS’ DAY—A CARNIVAL IN SUBTIABA—AN ABRUPT CONCLUSION. The novelty of a first visit once worn off, there is little to interest the stranger in Leon. There are no “stated” amusements, except at the cock-pit, which is open every Sunday afternoon. This is always crowded, but not often visited by the better portion of the population. It is a smooth spot of ground in the court-yard of the proprietor’s house, fenced in by canes to the height of about four feet, surrounded by high benches, and covered with a thatched roof. In the corridors of the house are little stalls, in which the cocks are kept, and here the wife and daughters of the proprietor sell chocolate and dulces to the visitors. No liquors are allowed upon the premises; and the Government, with a wise prevision, has always an alcalde and a file of soldiers present to preserve order. Visitors are admitted at a medio a head, and each one is at liberty to bring his “bird” with him. If a match cannot be made otherwise, the proprietor is obliged to accept the challenge of any of his visitors. A certain sum is paid to him on each cock entered, one-fourth of which goes into the city treasury. I visited the place but once, and suppose that the manner of fighting the cocks can afford but little, of what, I believe, is called “sport.” After a match was made up, the cocks had long, sword-shaped gaffs, double-edged, sharp as needles, and in some cases three or four inches long, bound on their legs, with which they almost invariably crippled themselves in their preliminary manœuvers. The contests were consequently very brief; one or two passes generally finished them. The bets were never high, but the excitement none the less in consequence. In former times, the proprietor told me, he numbered all the “caballeros” of the city amongst his visitors, and then golden ounces were wagered instead of dirty rials,—and he drew a handful of the latter from his pocket with a contemptuous sneer, and then violently thrust them back again. He longed for a change; any change would be acceptable to him which should bring back the caballeros and the golden ounces!