Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A HistoryFrench, Richard Valpy
History
Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A History
French, Richard Valpy
Drinking customs -- England; Drinking of alcoholic beverages -- Great Britain; England -- Social life and customs
The use of coffee-houses seems newly improved by a new invention
called chocolate houses, for the benefit of rooks and cullies of
all the quality; where gaming is added to all the rest, ... as if
the devil had erected a new university, and those were the colleges
of its professors, as well as his school of discipline.[151]
Chocolate was advertised as a new drink in 1657:--
In Bishopsgate Street in Queen’s Head Alley, at a Frenchman’s
house, is an excellent West India drink called chocolate to be
sold, where you may have it ready at any time, and also unmade, at
reasonable rates.
The reputation of chocolate upon its introduction was fluctuating. This
appears in the letters of Madame de Sévigné, who at one time recommends
it to her daughter with all fervour, whilst at other times she decries
it as the root of all evil.
But however much the introduction into our country of such drinks was
destined to discover a rival to intoxicants, the fact remains that the
public taste had by the habit of long ages become vitiated, and England
had earned for herself the distinction of the ‘land of drunkards.’
True it is that the Protector strove to repress intemperance by fines
and punishments. The rigid restrictions of the republican rule were
manifested in the strict surveillance maintained over the people, with
the view of securing temperance. Convictions for drunkenness were of
daily occurrence; and it was often the practice to remove all doubts
of the sufficiency of testimony by producing the delinquent in court
under the influence of drink. Many are the instances in which it is
recorded by the convicting justice that some offender was ‘drunk in my
view.’ They were in the habit, moreover, of making nice distinctions as
to the grades of intoxication.
The ‘drunkard’s cloak’ was an instrument of punishment then in use,
which might with advantage be revived. It was a cask with a hole at the
top, through which the drunkard’s head protruded, and one on each side
for either hand. The legs were free for the offender to perambulate
with the instrument of disgrace about him.[152]
Some strong language was uttered from the pulpit against drunkenness.
Dr. Robert Harris, President of Trinity College, Oxford, in the
dedication to the _Drunkard’s Cup_, a sermon, speaks of the _ars
bibendi_ as having become a great profession:--
There are lawes and ceremonies to be observed both by the firsts
and seconds. There is a drinking by the _foot_, by the _yard_, &c.,
a drinking by the _douzens_, by the _scores_, &c., for the _wager_,
for the _victory_, _man against man_, _house against house_, _town
against town_. There are also terms of art, fetched from hell, for
the better distinguishing of the practitioners; one is _coloured_,
another is _foxt_, a third is _gone to the dogs_, &c.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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