Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A HistoryFrench, Richard Valpy
History
Nineteen Centuries of Drink in England: A History
French, Richard Valpy
Drinking customs -- England; Drinking of alcoholic beverages -- Great Britain; England -- Social life and customs
Of the manners of the time we have abundant sources of information. An
interesting description is given by Grose of the little country squire
of about 300_l._ a year in Queen Anne’s days:--
He never played at cards but at Christmas, when a family pack was
produced from the mantel-piece. His chief drink, the year round,
was generally ale, except at this season, the fifth of November,
or some other gala days, when he would make a bowl of strong
brandy-punch, garnished with a toast and nutmeg.... In the corner
of his hall, by the fireside, stood a large wooden two-armed chair
with a cushion, and within the chimney corner were a couple of
seats. Here at Christmas he entertained his tenants, assembled
round a glowing fire.... In the meantime the jorum of ale was in
continual circulation.[187]
But Christmas was not what it had been. It struggled, almost in vain,
to overcome the check it had sustained during the Commonwealth. Private
hospitality and festivities were recovering, but the pageants and
masks in the royal household and at the Inns of Court had received a
death-blow. At the close of the century, a revel, which would once have
been regarded as routine, was thought worthy to be recorded in a diary.
Evelyn notes a riotous Christmas at the Inner Temple as late as 1697.
Such a falling off formed a common lament of the poets:--
Gone are those golden days of yore,
When Christmas was a high day;
Whose sports we now shall see no more,
‘Tis turn’d into Good Friday.[188]
To the same effect:--
Black jacks to every man
Were filled with wine and beer;
No pewter pot nor can
In those days did appear.
Good cheer in a nobleman’s house
Was counted a seemly show;
We wanted no brawn nor souse,
When this old cap was new.[189]
Perhaps the most sensible festivities of this period were certain
annual feasts in London for natives of the several counties. The
_London Gazette_, for May 30 to June 3, 1700, advertises ‘the annual
feast for gentlemen of the county of Huntingdon.’ Another number
announces ‘the anniversary feast for the gentlemen, natives of the
county of Kent.’ On such occasions, bygone times would be recounted,
mutual friends discussed, and the absent not forgotten in a _toast_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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