Nooks and Corners of PembrokeshireTimmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
History
Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire
Timmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
Pembrokeshire (Wales) -- Description and travel
Newport Bay, lying under the lee of Dinas Head, looks as though one
might cast a stone into its calm waters; and upon turning our gaze
inland, the eye loses itself amidst the many-folding hills, as they rise
in soft undulations to the dusky highlands of Glamorganshire.
We now push on along the crest of the moorland, striking once more into
the course of the so-called Flemings' Way. After the manner of most
early roads, this ancient trackway runs athwart the open highlands,
avoiding the hollow places; and although much of it has been obliterated
by the ploughshare, and the gradual advance of cultivation, its course
may still be traced in the less-frequented localities, as it wends its
way up country from the site of old Menapia towards the county-town of
Carmarthen.
An ancient warrant of Sir Nicholas Martin, referring to the use of this
old mountain road by the Flemish colony, observes: 'And well they might
make this unusual waie for their passage, for that, passinge alonge the
toppe of the highest hill, they might the better descrie the pryvie
ambushes of the Countrye people, which might in streightes and woodds
annoy them.'
At a place appropriately called the Pass of the Winds, we fall in with
the main road as it crosses the hills from Haverfordwest to Cardigan.
This we descend for a matter of half a mile, passing across a heathery
upland ycleped the Hill of the Unstrung-Bows, until we come to Tafarn
Bwlch, a humble wayside alehouse some thousand feet or so above
sea-level.
Looking out across a broad brown reach of moorland, the eye detects a
sort of rude stone causeway, curving amidst rush-grass and scattered
peat-hags. This is known as Bedd-yr-Avangc, or the Beaver's Grave; _à
propos_ of which it is worthy of note that Giraldus Cambrensis mentions
the beaver as abounding in his day on Teivyside, while more than one
venerable legend locates this amphibious quadruped in the _llyns_ and
streams throughout wild Wales.
Arrived at Tafarn Bwlch, we call for such cheer as the lowly inn can
supply; but the bill of fare proves somewhat scanty, for, in the words
of the great lexicographer, 'of provisions its negative catalogue is
very copious.' The goodwife, however, rises to the occasion, and regales
us with a repast such as appetites sharpened by lusty mountain air make
short enough work of. Then we burn incense to the drowsy god in a nook
of the chimney-place, where a peat-fire glows untended upon the ample
hearth.
Starting forth again like giants refreshed, we breast the stony ascent
that leads to the pass amidst a sharp squall of wind and rain, which
drags in a darkening veil athwart the lonesome landscape, blotting now
this, now that familiar landmark from the view.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account