Nooks and Corners of PembrokeshireTimmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
History
Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire
Timmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
Pembrokeshire (Wales) -- Description and travel
From the head of the pass we descend into the vale of the infant
Syvynvy, rounding the broad green slopes of the Eagles' Hill, the
westernmost buttress of the Precelly range. At the crossways we bear to
the left, with the disused windmill of the slate quarries showing
conspicuously upon a neighbouring hill.
Pushing on towards Maenclochog, we pass near the defunct Rosebush
Station, on the line of the Maenclochog railway, which at present is
undergoing in leisurely fashion a process of reconstruction. Indeed, in
the matter of slowness, the builders of this line may fairly claim to
have 'broken the record,' for 'tis whispered that seventeen years' work
has added little more than four miles to the length of the railway!
Be that as it may, we now make our entry into the village of
Maenclochog, a bleak-looking place enough, where the storm-rent trees
beside the roadway attest the violence of the winter gales that sweep
across these bare, lofty uplands.
Towards the farther end of the village, at a widening of the ways,
stands the parish church, a structure of no great antiquity, dedicated
to St. Mary. The clergyman, who has ministered here for upwards of
thirty years, now courteously introduces us to the well-tended interior,
the most noteworthy feature of which is a plain old font, with a
singular cup-shaped recess upon its eastern face, the purpose of which
we are quite at a loss to conjecture.
St. Mary's Church has no tower, but at the western end rises a low
turret containing a musical peal of bells. It is a remarkable fact,
indeed, that throughout this mountain district church towers are
conspicuous by their absence; whereas, in the English country farther
south, the tall slender bell-tower usually forms one of the most
noticeable features of the parish church.
A marble cross used, we are informed, to adorn the chancel gable; but
this has long since been removed to the limbo of things forgotten.
In olden times, it was customary at Maenclochog to draw the water for
baptism from St. Mary's Well, a natural spring that rises just without
the village. Near to this well are some tumbled stones, that once
supported a large horizontal slab. Tradition tells that this stone, when
struck, gave forth a loud ringing sound, which did not cease until the
water from the holy well had been brought into the church. Hence the
name of Maenclochog, which, being interpreted, signifies the village of
the 'ringing rock.' It is much to be regretted that this curious object
was destroyed many years ago, because, forsooth, the sound thereof was
supposed to frighten passing horses!
At the foot of the village stands a large, rambling inn, backed by the
singularly artificial-looking rocks known as 'the Castle,' whence the
house takes its title. In a country where lodgings of any sort are so
few and far between, the wayfarer may do worse than pitch his camp for a
night in these unassuming quarters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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