Nooks and Corners of PembrokeshireTimmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
History
Nooks and Corners of Pembrokeshire
Timmins, H. Thornhill (Henry Thornhill)
Pembrokeshire (Wales) -- Description and travel
We now return to the neighbouring gardens, in order to sketch the
picturesque little tower which stands isolated amidst trim walks and
old-fashioned flower-beds.
It is difficult to assign a _raison d'être_ for the existence of this
quaint old structure. By some folks it has been called the gate-tower to
the inner ward; but others, again, have styled it the priests'
dwelling-place; and our investigations seem to point to some such use as
the latter.
A stone stairway, hollowed in the thickness of the wall, leads to an
upper chamber, which contains a niche (suggestive of a piscina), a
fireplace, and several small windows. The peaked roof, which is modern,
is surrounded by open, pointed arches corbelled out from the wall below,
and finished with plain battlements. Thus, with its picturesque medley
of weather-stained brick, stone and timber, touched here and there with
green moss and golden lichens, this curious tower proves an attractive
bit for the sketch-book.
At Lamphey Palace Robert Devereux, the ill-fated Earl of Essex, spent
several years of his youth; and is reputed to have quitted the place
'the most finished gentleman of his time.'
Superstitious folk, when approaching these ruins after nightfall, while
'the moping owl doth to the moon complain,' may (or may not) have their
nerves agreeably thrilled by the apparition of a mysterious white lady,
presumably a Devereux, who is said to haunt these historic shades at
that witching hour!
Lamphey Church, which lies a short half-mile away, has been too much
modernized to detain us long. The tall, plain tower has been preserved,
however, in its original simplicity; and the large square font, of early
type, has a little ornamentation of good character.
Crossing the railway bridge past _the_ shop of the village, with its
alluring display of miscellaneous _olla podrida_ in the window, we
pursue our shadows along a dusty country road; cutting off a circuitous
corner by taking to a pleasant field-path. A bright little country maid
pioneers us hence into Hodgeston, a sleepy hamlet consisting of some
half-dozen whitewashed cottages clustering around the sorry remnants of
a village green, now shrunk to half its old proportions owing to recent
encroachments.
Obtaining the key at one of these cottages, we now make straight for the
parish church, which rises beyond a grove of trees, less than a bowshot
away.
Seen from the outside, this little edifice looks unostentatious enough,
with its slender western tower, chancel, and nave devoid of the usual
excrescences; but upon entering we soon find matter to arouse our
keenest interest.
[Illustration: THE CHANCEL HODGESTON CHURCH]
The nave is simple, though well proportioned; setting off to fullest
advantage the rich and elaborate features that adorn the Decorated
chancel. Good traceried windows rise upon either hand, surmounted by an
open timber roof, with the pretty ball-flower ornament running around
the top of the wall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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