Nooks and Corners of the New England CoastDrake, Samuel Adams
History
Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast
Drake, Samuel Adams
New England -- Description and travel
Great Head is easily found. The road we have been pursuing comes to an
abrupt ending at a house within a short half-mile of it. Follow the
shore backward toward Schooner Head, and you will stand in presence of
the boldest headland in all New England. I saw that no foot-print but my
own had lately passed that way. There was something in thus having it
all to one's self.
To appreciate Great Head one must stand underneath it; but the descent,
always difficult, was rendered perilous by the newly-formed ice. By dint
of perseverance I at last stood upon the ledge beneath, that extends out
like a platform for some distance toward deep water. It was the right
stage of the tide. I looked up at the face of the cliff. It was bearded
with icicles, like the Genius of Winter. Along the upper edge appeared
the interlacing roots of old trees grasping the scanty soil like monster
talons. Stunted birches, bent by storms, skirted its brow, and at sea
add to its height. From top to bottom the face of the cliff is a mass of
hard granite, overhanging its foundations in impending ruin, shivered
and splintered as if torn by some tremendous explosion. I could only
think of the last sketch of Delaroche.
The sea rolls in great waves that overwhelm every thing within their
reach. More than once I started back at the approach of one of them.
Just outside the first line of breakers rode a flock of wild fowl, and
occasionally the mournful cry of a loon, or shriller scream of a
sea-gull, mingled with the roar of the surf. Farther out, at the
distance of a mile, a wicked-looking rock and ledge was flinging off the
seas, flecking its tawny flanks with foam, like a war-horse impatiently
champing at his bit.
[Illustration: GREAT HEAD.]
Looking off from Great Head to the eastward, the main-land is perceived
trending away until it loses itself in the ocean. At the extremity of
this land is Schoodic Point and Mountain, with Mosquito Harbor indenting
it. The water between is not the true "Baye Françoise" of Champlain,
Lescarbot, and others. The appellation belongs of right to the Bay of
Fundy, perpetuating as it does the misadventure of Nicolas Aubri, one of
the company of De Monts, who was lost in the woods there. As this is not
the only historic anachronism by many that may be met with on our
coasts, I do not propose to quarrel with it, the less that a Frenchman
was the first white here. The name has been current for about a century,
though on old French maps it is found to lie farther east.
The north wind was beating down yesterday's sea, sweeping over the
billows, and whirling their crests far away to leeward. Along the rocks
the foam lay like wool-fleeces, or was whisked about, dabbling the grim
face of the cliff with creamy spots. Other headlands were mailed in ice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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