_Tides._--The waters of the ocean are subject to wave-like undulations,
caused by the attraction of the moon and sun, termed the tides. Every
day, at the average interval of twelve hours and fifty-one minutes, the
"tide rises," and with equal regularity intermediate between these
periods it "falls." This rise and fall of the waters along the coast,
accompanied frequently by strong currents, are produced directly by the
arrival in the shoal water of a pulsation of the ocean, which becomes a
true onward-moving gravity wave as it nears the land. In the open sea
the amplitude of the tidal undulations is but two or three feet, and
their rate of travel in general 700 to 800 miles per hour. On reaching
shoal water, however, the onward movement is decreased by friction on
the bottom, the waves become higher, and when they meet an
outward-flowing bottom current, their bases are still more retarded and
the slope of their fronts increases until the water falls forward and
breaks into foam. On the Atlantic coast, each tidal wave reaches the
land broadside on, as it were (Fig. 4), and at the outer capes high
water occurs at practically the same time from Florida to New England,
but its farther landward progression is greatly modified by the shape of
the coast and the depth of water in the estuaries and other
indentations. When the wave as it rushes landward enters a broad water
body through a narrow entrance, as the Gulf of Mexico, for example, it
spreads, and as the impulse is transmitted to larger and larger volumes
of water, it decreases in height. (In a critical study the tides
originating in the Gulf itself should be considered.) At Galveston,
Texas, the mean range between high and low tide is less than one foot.
When, however, an estuary with a broad mouth receives a tidal wave from
the ocean, the impulse is more and more concentrated and the wave
rises higher. At the head of the Bay of Fundy the difference between
high and low water is from 50 to 60 feet. For the reason just stated,
the tidal wave is generally higher in the Atlantic coast estuaries than
on the ocean capes, and under favourable conditions may be transmitted
for long distances up the rivers emptying into such estuaries, and may
be felt where the mean elevation of the stream is several feet above the
mean level of the sea on the neighbouring open coast. Tidal waves pass
up the Hudson to Troy, a distance of 150 miles from the Narrows,
where the mean range is 2.3 feet. In St. John River, New Brunswick, the
tidal impulse is felt at Frederickton, 70 miles from the Bay of Fundy,
and at an elevation of 14 feet above its surface. In the St. Lawrence
estuary and river the tidal waves ascend 283 miles to Three Rivers, a
few miles below Montreal, where the mean elevation is about 11 feet and
the mean range of the tide 0.9 foot. In the Columbia the range of the
tide is about 6 inches at a distance of 140 miles from the ocean.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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