A cross profile of a wave-cut seashore (Fig. 5) shows two prominent
features, namely, a sea-cliff with a horizontal base, and a terrace
sloping seaward from the foot of the cliff. Of these, the cliff is by
far the more prominent as it stands up boldly to view, while the terrace
is in large part and perhaps wholly submerged. These two leading
characteristics in the topography of wave-cut shores are shown in the
following diagram:
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Ideal profile of a sea-cliff and current-built
terrace.]
The water carried landward by each wave as it rushes up the sloping
surface of a terrace again finds its way seaward, either wholly or in
part, as an "undertow." Much of the rock _debris_ ground fine by the
ceaseless beating of the surf is separated from the coarser material,
thus leaving the latter free to be moved by succeeding waves, and is
carried seaward by the bottom current or undertow. During storms
especially there is usually to be seen a belt of discoloured water
seaward from the white breakers which margin the land. The finer
_debris_ carried away from the shore by the undertow is sooner or later
deposited, and much of it is laid down on the terrace bordering the land
and serves to build out its seaward margin. A normal sea-terrace is thus
in part the result of the cutting away of the land, and in part of the
deposition of the material removed. The sea not only cuts away the land,
however, but at many localities makes important additions to it.
Where the water is shallow the larger waves break at a distance perhaps
of several miles from the coast-line, and build up long narrow bars,
usually of sand, which form barriers, more or less parallel with the
shore, and shelter it from further encroachments of the sea. Again, when
the wind from the sea blows obliquely to the coast, currents are
established in the water which sweep along the loose material on the
beach and on the submerged portion of the terrace of which the beach is
a visible part, and cause it to travel in the general direction of the
prevailing on-shore winds. This action also leads to the building of
bars more or less parallel with the coast and at the extremities of
capes, particularly where the shore currents enter deeper water and give
origin to spits of various shapes, which are frequently curved towards
the land and at their extremities become hooks and loops.
There are thus two important processes, one destructive and the other
constructive, by which the sea is continually modifying the border of
the land.
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