Root pruning, where it can be practiced to advantage, will be found more effective still. I have never known newly transplanted stocks or those which had the tree digger run under them, to bleed freely when grafted, and we have sometimes gotten a good stand of grafts on such stocks, but such stocks may not always have sufficient sap for the best results in grafting, if they have been recently transplanted or root pruned. Fall planted As a matter of experiment, I want to try budding both the pecan and walnut by this method the present season, but I don't expect any results from walnut buds set in this way. For the information of those who may wish to try this method the present season, I will say that we cut the shagbark buds a little heavier than we cut apple or pear buds. The wood was left in the bud. The bark on the stock was split and the buds inserted just as in any other shield budding. The buds were wrapped very firmly, with waxed muslin, just as we wrap patch buds. Our success with grafting the English or Persian walnut, under northern conditions, has been variable and not very satisfactory. With good scions and good stocks and other favorable conditions, we have sometimes gotten over 90 per cent to grow, but the stand is more often much below this and the present season we did not average over 25 per cent. The fact that we get good stands of grafts when all conditions are right, is not only encouraging but demonstrates that the English walnut can be grafted under eastern or northern conditions with at least a fair degree of certainty as to results, just as soon as we learn the causes of our failures and are thus able to apply the remedy. Perhaps the greatest drawback to the successful grafting of the English walnut is the difficulty of obtaining good scions. The annual growth of the walnut is much more pithy than that of the pecan or shagbark, and for this reason, only a comparatively small portion of the growth is available for grafting purposes if we are able to select scions that will give the best results. Like the pecan and shagbark, the two-year wood makes the best scions for grafting, provided that the wood has good buds on it, but under our conditions those buds that lie dormant are usually shed off during the summer and few good buds remain that will start quickly into active growth. It is true that adventitious buds will often form where these buds have shed off, and these will push into growth if the stock is kept free from sprouts, but usually too late in the season to make good trees, and keeping the seedling stock free from sprouts when it should be in leafage is more or less weakening and injurious and the grafts, starting into growth late in the season, do not mature and ripen their growth up properly before frost and are quite likely to be injured by early November freezes, unless they have some protection. To graft the English walnut with unvarying and satisfactory results, under