Northern Nut Growers Association, Report of the Proceedings at the Third Annual Meeting: Lancaster, Pennsylvania, December 18 and 19, 1912
Science
Northern Nut Growers Association, Report of the Proceedings at the Third Annual Meeting: Lancaster, Pennsylvania, December 18 and 19, 1912
Northern Nut Growers Association -- Periodicals; Nut trees -- Periodicals; Nuts -- Periodicals
Many of the owners of chestnut trees throughout Pennsylvania do not
acknowledge that a fungus is causing the death of the trees. They state
that since they have found white grubs or the larvae of beetles in
nearly every tree that dies, that it has been the larvae that killed the
tree. It is acknowledged that generally white grubs are found in dying
chestnut trees, and that in nearly all of the large cankers or lesions
these grubs are present. However, if one will take the pains to examine
the small twigs and branches or the new shoots rising from the stumps,
that are diseased, he will not find the grubs present.
Second, what is to be done with diseased trees to bring them back to
health or to prevent them from infecting other healthy trees nearby. To
bring the trees back to health implies that the disease can be cured.
This is not always true for the tree may be already nearly girdled, when
the disease is first noticed. A tree taken in time, however, may have
its life prolonged indefinitely though it may have the blight in some
portion of it every year. More particularly does this apply to valuable
ornamental and orchard trees.
Prof. J. Franklin Collins, Forest Pathologist in the Department of
Agriculture in Farmer's Bulletin No. 467 on "The Control of the Chestnut
Bark Disease" gives the following: "The essentials for the work are a
gouge, a mallet, a pruning knife, a pot of coal tar, and a paint brush.
In the case of a tall tree a ladder or rope, or both may be necessary
but under no circumstances should tree climbers be used, as they cause
wounds which are very favorable places for infection. Sometimes an axe,
a saw, and a long-handled tree pruner are convenient auxiliary
instruments, though practically all the cutting recommended can be done
with a gouge with a cutting edge of 1 or 1-1/2 inches. All cutting
instruments should be kept very sharp, so that a clean smooth cut may be
made at all times."
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