The leaves which surround the stem are collected in May or June of the
second year, when they begin to turn yellow. The wasted and dried
leaves are sometimes used directly for dyeing, but more generally the
leaves, after being cut and dried, are carried to a mill, and then
ground to a paste, after which it is formed into a mass or heap, and
being covered to protect it from rain, is left to undergo a partial
fermentation for about a fortnight. The heap is then well mixed and
formed into balls, which are exposed to the sun and wind to dry, and
thereby prevent the putrefaction which would otherwise take place.
Being afterwards collected in heaps, these balls again ferment, become
hot, and emit the odor of ammonia, which Hume tells us, in the History
of England, gave such offence to Queen Elizabeth that she issued an
edict to prohibit the cultivation of this plant. After the heat has
continued for some time, these balls fall into a dry powder, in which
form the woad is usually sold to the dyer. The best French woad comes
from Provence, Languedoc, and Normandy. In Germany, the pastel of
Thuringia is used almost exclusively; the packages have the trade-mark
of three towers, with the numbers 4, 5. In this country, owing
probably to the prejudices of practical dyers, who have generally come
from England, the Lancashire woad is almost exclusively used. The very
little imported of late years, ranging from two thousand to twelve
thousand dollars annually in value, is used for mixing with indigo in
the so-called woad vat, to be hereafter described.
COMMERCIAL INDIGOES.
The following description of the indigoes of commerce is taken
principally from Schutzenberger’s excellent treatise on coloring
materials. It coincides very nearly with that given by Napier from
Dumas and Chevrueil. Indigoes are classed, according to their origin,
into three groups.
1. Indigoes of Asia (from Bengal, Oude or Coromandel, Manilla, Madras,
and Java).
2. Indigoes of Africa (Egypt, Island of France, Senegal).
3. Indigoes of America (Guatemala, Caraccas, Mexico, Brazil, and the
West Indies).
The three varieties in most esteem are those of Bengal, Java, and
Guatemala.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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