The ingredients most usually employed for furnishing the
hydrocarbonaceous substances for fermentation are bran and ground
madder, although molasses is sometimes used. The nitrogenized material
is found in the woad or pastel, which is often added in very large
proportions to the fermenting vats. It is observed by the chemists who
have studied this subject most carefully, that the preparation of
vats, founded upon the principle of fermentation, does not repose upon
principles so sure and constant as those of the copperas vat, and that
many unforeseen accidents interpose to disturb the work of an
inexperienced dyer. The phenomena in fermentations are often complex.
It is admitted that in these phenomena theory has not said its last
word, and that empiricism is often more fortunate than science. In
conducting the operations of the warm fermenting vat, the conceit of
the practical dyer, so often remarked upon, is not without foundation.
By practical experience and the traditions of his art he has acquired
a knowledge of the almost insensible modification in conditions which
can change or arrest the chemical reaction. It is the knowledge of the
workman, a knowledge almost instinctive, which can never be
communicated to the books, and which is most respected by those most
profoundly informed in theory.
_The Woad or Pastel Vat_.—In former times woad, already referred to,
was the only material known to the dyers of Europe for producing the
blue color of indigo. For dyeing wool, the use of woad, now abandoned
wholly in cotton dyeing, has been retained to the present day,
generally for the purpose of exciting fermentation, and without regard
to its effect in imparting color to the material to be dyed; for the
woad grown in England, and used in the dye-houses of that country,
contains no trace of coloring matter. The woad, or pastel, grown in
the warmer districts of France contains about two per cent of
indigotine, which is regarded in that country as an important addition
to the coloring material, especially for improving the tone of the
color. Various substitutes, such as rhubarb leaves, turnip and carrot
tops, and weld, have been tried, but without advantage, with the
exception, perhaps, of weld, which is still used by some dyers. Some
chemists regard the use of woad as the remnant of a prejudice; but the
better opinion is, that this material possesses peculiar
fermentiscible qualities, whose exact action science has yet to resolve.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account