Let us, in concluding the first part of our paper, at the risk of
repetition, bring out in bolder relief a statement which presents the
philosophy of all the various processes of the indigo vat, and at the
same time, a conclusive argument for the use of this material, in
preference to all cheaper substitutes. Indigo cannot enter into a
fibre until it is dissolved. It cannot be dissolved so long as it is
in a blue state. When reduced by any of the processes above described
to the white state, it is easily dissolved, and can enter the pores of
the fibre. Upon exposure to the oxygen of the air it takes up an
equivalent of oxygen; it returns to the blue state, and, being then
insoluble, it cannot be washed away from the fabric, and being
saturated with oxygen it cannot be changed by air or light. This
theory of the application of indigo involves a lesson to
manufacturers, dealers, and consumers, especially of woollen fabrics.
The theory, as well as experience, dating back to the dawn of the
textile arts in the East, establishes that this material is
incalculably superior to any other, in permanence at least, for
imparting to woollen fibre a blue color, or as a foundation for most
of the darker colors. By far the largest proportion of all cloths are
of dark colors,—blue, black, green, brown, gray, or mixed,—and can
advantageously receive in all or a portion of the fibre constituting
them a direct dye or bottom for other dyes from indigo. It may be
safely stated that, as a whole, no cloths in the world are
manufactured from such good wool as those produced in the United
States. We might expect that the shoddy goods of Yorkshire should be
further falsified by fugacious dyes; but is it not a shame that our
admirable wool should be deprived of half its value by parsimony in
dyeing? The slightest shortcomings in dyeing are revealed in wear. The
writer cannot forbear referring to an illustration directly before his
eyes. He is wearing a garment, reduced now to the retired service of
an office coat, made of an admirable cheviot cloth of American
manufacture. The cloth originally was selected not only for its
excellent texture, but as an illustration of philosophical principles
applied in the formation of color. The tissue was made by weaving
three yarns of distinct colors,—blue, yellow, and red. Either of those
hues alone would have been glaring and conspicuous, but, by the law of
color, the combination of blue, red, and yellow makes black, and the
new cloth at a distance had the effect of a dark mixture. Upon
exposure to ordinary wear, the yellow and red have retained their
pristine hues; the blue, not being indigo dyed, has faded; and the
original dark mixture, although sound in fabric, has become of a
yellowish brown. The extra expense of a permanent dyeing material
forms so small a proportion of the whole cost of a finished garment,
that it ought not to be generally spared. The reform cannot be made by
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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