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[3] See the case stated at length in our article on Trade-marks,
Bulletin, vol. i. p. 102.
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To recur to the application of indigo dyeing to wool and woollens. We
have been unable, although we have written more than fifty letters of
inquiry upon the subject, to learn of any peculiarity or improvements
in the American processes of wool dyeing with indigo.[4] Our dyers are
for the most part foreigners. For this reason, or because the art of
indigo dyeing has long since reached perfection in the best
establishments abroad, they rigidly pursue the old European methods.
The best dyers regard the successful management of the warm fermenting
vats for wool as the highest test of their art. We have already spoken
of the complicity of the phenomena in fermentations. Practical dyers
endow the fermenting vat with a sort of personality. “An indigo vat,”
says one to us, “is more like a sick man than any thing in the world:
you have to watch it as you would a sick patient, and give it physic
or ferments to stir up the system and purify it.” [5] The diagnosis of
a sick vat requires that sort of instinctive knowledge which
experience gives to the practised physician. The impatience of our
young Americans will not permit them to serve the long apprenticeship
necessary to acquire the proper experience. The artisans not
thoroughly trained will naturally prefer the dyes and processes
introduced by modern science, which require but little skill in their
application. It is a curious fact that the influence of the national
government has been largely instrumental in preserving the old system
of indigo dyeing. Thanks to the Quartermaster-General’s Bureau, or the
man of science, General Meigs, who presides over it, indigo dyed
cloths have been persistently insisted upon for the army. The late war
gave a new impulse to indigo dyeing. A skilled dyer, whom we have
consulted, was constantly employed in Connecticut, on a tour of
professional inspection of a dozen or more different establishments
making army goods. No doctor, he says, ever found in hospital practice
more complications of disease than he found in the ailing vats. Among
other difficulties there was a deficiency of imported woads, although
the cultivation of excellent woad immediately sprung up in
Connecticut. In the mean time carrot and rhubarb tops were used as
substitutes for the fermenting material of the woad. Carrot-tops grown
expressly for that purpose brought as high as twenty-five cents per
pound. Since the war the requisitions for indigo dyed woollen goods
have not relaxed, and the art is not likely to be lost.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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