The old European woad vat process is that used in all our
establishments. Mr. Henderson of the Washington Mills, whose
experience as a practical dyer of wool is exceptionally large, informs
us that he has found no work so instructive upon this process as
Napier’s “Chemistry of Dyeing” (published by Henry Carey Baird, of
Philadelphia, 1869). Napier’s description of the process is extracted
from Dumas’s “Lectures on Dyeing.” The appreciation expressed by so
competent a judge induces us to reprint Dumas’s description in an
appendix to this article.
That we may give at least a general view of the whole subject, we will
proceed to consider indigo in some relations not yet adverted to.
In Part I. of our notes we have treated only of the application of
this substance in dyeing by means of reduction through the indigo vat.
Indigo may be applied by means of reduction in the printing of
fabrics, as well as in dyeing them. A true scientific arrangement
would compel us next in order to consider this other application of
indigo by means of reduction. But the more natural and practical order
is to pursue the subject of dyeing, and to consider next the
applications of the derivatives from indigo in dyeing proper.
SULPHURIC DERIVATIVES,—SAXON BLUE, &C.
The powerful action of sulphuric acid upon indigo, and the bright and
lively blue color thereby produced, had been observed by chemists long
ago; but no person appears to have applied this color upon cloth,
until it was done about the year 1740, by Counsellor Barth, at
Grossenhein, in Saxony. The vividness of the dye, and the facility
with which it was applied, brought it into great vogue under the name
of Saxon blue, from its origin. Its popularity in former times is
evinced by the words of the old song, “The Blue Bells of Scotland:”—
“In what clothes, in what clothes is your Highland laddie clad?
His bonnet’s of the Saxon blue, his waistcoat of the plaid.”[6]
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[6] First sung by Mrs. Jordan, about the year 1799.
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The Saxon blue consists simply of a solution of indigo, the Guatemala
blue indigo being preferred, in sulphuric acid suitably diluted with
water. The result of this reaction is not a single chemical substance,
but two acids giving different tints, one called _sulpho-purpuric_
acid or _phenicine_, and the other _sulpho-indigotic_ acid; the first
giving to wool a reddish-violet color, and the other a pure blue. A
third compound has been indicated by Berzelius, the nature of which
has not been determined. Whether one or the other of the two named
acids, or the two combined, shall be produced by the reaction between
the sulphuric acid and the indigo, depends upon the duration of the
contact, the temperature of the mixture, and the nature and proportion
of the acid used.
Persoz gives the following general receipt:—
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