The passengers on these Gulf steamers are of as many types as those
seen on Change in Bombay. It is not unlikely that of the twenty or more
who sit down to dinner, no two will be of the same color, costume,
nationality, or religion. Even the crew ceases to be European; Chinamen
usually cook and wait, and Indians handle cargo and work the ship.
About 600 miles and 4 days from, Kurrachee, Ormuz is made, dirty,
dilapidated, with absolutely no remains of its historic wealth. The
first place of importance is Bushire, 300 miles farther up. It is
the principal seaport of Persia, and does considerable trade, long
caravans of camels transporting merchandise to and from the interior.
Persian cats can be got here; a pair offered for $25 was sold finally
for $5; with more time they could have been bought for $2.
From Bushire to Bassorah, on the Euphrates, is 180 miles. A narrow
canal-like stream leads from the river to the native village where
Sindbad the Sailor is said to have roamed. Connection can be made at
Bassorah with a steamboat going up the river past the Garden of Eden, a
disappointing, flat, uncared-for plain, to Bagdad; and thence, by camel
to points in the interior. Steamers in the Persian Gulf trade take in
dates, grain, and wool, leaving cotton fabrics, rice, opium, etc.
On returning to Kurrachee, the traveller would do well to take the
railway to Agra, and the Taj, Benares, and other places, and so back
again to Bombay and the ocean highways.
Henceforth, the character of the passengers on board ship changes
somewhat; many of the Europeans leave for extended tours by rail to
Calcutta and other Indian cities, their places being taken by Parsee
merchants, rich Indians, and enterprising Chinamen, bound away on
business.
The run to Colombo, Ceylon, 875 miles to the southward, is made over
a warm, smooth sea, and on the evening of the fifth day the harbor is
entered. Colombo is a steamship centre where all the vessels of the
long trunk lines rendezvous to coal, provision, exchange passengers
and frequently freight. They come from the four quarters of the globe,
from Calcutta and Bombay in the north, from China and Singapore in the
east, from Australia, Mauritius, and Africa in the south, and from Aden
and the Suez Canal in the west. Colombo has much to attract a traveller
during the 24 or 48 hours the steamer stays, but usually the Oriental
Hotel claims his time and attention, for this is the place of meeting
of all who go upon the waters, and high wassail is apt to be the order
of the night.
The dining-room of the Oriental is the refreshment-room at the
intersection of the chief steam lines of the world. It is, as it were,
the restaurant of a Union depot where everyone must go for a meal; at
its tables travellers from opposite points of the world meet, Chinese
bound for Europe, Englishmen to report for Indian duty, French soldiers
en route for Saigon, and Australians making the grand tour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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