However, I have noticed that there are people who are not bored by it;
in fact, I have seen them deliberately order it in a restaurant when
they had the choice of something else; so I thought that the only fair
thing I could do would be to look into the matter and see if, in this
great city, there weren't some different ways of serving roast beef
to vary its monotony.
Roast beef is not the same price in all eating-places. What makes the
difference? What does a diner at the Ritz get in his "roast prime ribs
of beef au jus" that makes it distinctive from the "Special
to-day--roast beef and mashed potatoes" of the Bowery restaurant?
To answer these questions I started out on a tour of the
representative eating-places of some of our best known strata of
society, and, whatever my conclusions are, you may be sure that they
are thoroughly inexpert.
First, I tried out what is known as the Bay State Lunch, so called
because on Thursdays they have a fishcake special. It is one of the
hundreds of "self-serving" lunchrooms, where you approach the marble
counter and give your order in a low tone to a man in a barber's coat,
and then repeat it at intervals of one minute, each time louder and
each time to a different man, until you are forced to point to a tub
of salmon salad and say, "Some of that," for which your ticket is
punched and you are allowed to take your portion and nurse it on the
over-developed arm of a chair.
Here the roast beef shot through the Punch and Judy arrangement in the
wall, a piece of meat about as large around as a man's-size mitten,
steeping in its own gravy and of a pale reddish hue. The price was
twenty cents, which included a dab of mashed potato dished out in an
ice-cream scoop, a generous allowance of tender peas, two hot
tea-biscuits and butter to match.
[Illustration: "Considering the basic ingredient, it was a perfectly
satisfactory meal."]
Considering the basic ingredient, it was a perfectly satisfactory
meal, and I felt that twenty cents was little enough to pay for it,
especially since it was going in on my expense account.
For the next experiment I went to a restaurant where business men are
wont to gather for luncheon, men who pride themselves on their acumen
and adherence to the principles of efficiency. The place has a French
name and its menus are printed on a card the size of a life insurance
company's complimentary calendar, always an ominous sign. The roast
beef here was served cold, with a plate of escarole salad (when I was
a boy I used to have to dig escarole out of the front lawn with a
trowel so that the grass could have a chance) for seventy-five cents.
The meat bulked a little larger than at the Bay State Lunch, but when
the fat had been cut away and trimmed off the salvage was about the
size of a boy's mitten. As for the taste, the only difference that I
could detect was that one had been hot and the other cold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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