Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices — John Shaqi
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive noticesStewart, Donald William
History
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices
Stewart, Donald William
Tartans -- Scotland
My good Lord of Marr having put me into that shape, I rode with him
from his house, where I saw the ruines of an old castle, called the
castle of Kindroghit. It was built by King Malcolm Canmore (for a
hunting house) who raigned in Scotland when Edward the Confessor,
Harold, and Norman William raigned in England: I speak of it, because
it was the last house I saw in those parts; for I was the space
of twelve days after, before I saw either house, corne-field, or
habitation for any creature, but deere, wilde horses, wolves, and
suche like creatures, which made me doubt that I should never have
seene a house againe.[38]
The attachment of the Highlanders to their distinctive attire is
conspicuously evident in this account, which deserves careful study
in consequence of its profusion of detail. Trews (breeches) were
not worn, but in their stead was a tartan “jerkin”; and this had no
connection with the plaid, for the people had a “plead about their
shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, much finer and lighter
stuffe than their hose.” Being coarser and thicker than the plaid, the
“jerkin” could scarcely have been the shirt, and it was most probably
the feilebeg, or little kilt, used as a separate garment.
That the form of the feilebeg was known to the Highlanders before the
civil wars of the seventeenth century, and that the belted plaid was
thrown occasionally into the form of the feilebeg, is proved by the
following extract:—
As for their Apparel; next the skin, they wear a short linnen Shirt,
which the great Men among them sometimes dye of saffron Colour.
They use it short, that it may not incumber them, when running or
travelling. Major says the common People among them went out to
Battle, having their Body cover’d with Linnen of many Folds sewed
together and done over with Wax or Pitch, with a covering of Hart’s
Skin; but that the English and common lowland Scots fought in Clokes.
In the sharp Winter weather the Highland Men wear close trowzes, which
cover the Thighs, Legs, and Feet. To fence their feet they put on
Rullions or raw leather shoes. Above their Shirt they have a single
Coat, reaching no farther than the Navel. Their uppermost Garment is
a loose Cloke of several Ells, striped and party colour’d (the tartan
plaid), which they gird breadth-wise with a Leathern Belt so as it
scarce covers the knees, and that for the above-mention’d Reason, that
it may be no Lett to them, when on a Journey or doing any Work. Far
the greatest part of the Plaid covers the uppermost parts of the Body.
Sometimes it is all folded round the Body about the Region of the
Belt, for disengaging and leaving the Hands free; and sometimes ’tis
wrapped round all that is above the Flank. The trowzes are for Winter
use; at other Times they content themselves with short Hose, which
scarce reach to the knees. When they compose themselves to Rest and
Sleep, they loose the Belt, and roll themselves in the Plaid, lying
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