Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive noticesStewart, Donald William
History
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices
Stewart, Donald William
Tartans -- Scotland
The antient Dress wore by the Women, and which is yet wore by some of
the Vulgar, called _Arisad_, is a white _Plad_, having a few small
Stripes of black, blue, and red; it reach’d from the Neck to the
Heels, and was tied before on the Breast with a Buckle of Silver, or
Brass, according to the Quality of the Person. I have seen some of the
former of an hundred Marks value; it was broad as any ordinary Pewter
Plate, the whole curiously engraven with various Animals, _&c._ There
was a lesser Buckle, which was wore in the middle of the larger,
and above two Ounces weight; it had in the Center a large piece of
Chrystal, or some finer Stone, and this was set all round with several
finer Stones of a lesser size.
The _Plad_ being pleated all round, was tied with a Belt below
the Breast; the Belt was of Leather, and several Pieces of Silver
intermix’d with the Leather like a Chain. The lower end of the Belt
has a Piece of Plate about eight Inches long, and three in breadth,
curiously engraven; the end of which was adorned with fine Stones, or
Pieces of Red Coral. They wore Sleeves of Scarlet Cloth, clos’d at the
end as Mens Vests, with Gold Lace round ’em, having Plate Buttons set
with fine Stones. The Head-dress was a fine _Kerchief_ of Linen strait
about the Head, hanging down the Back taper-wise; a large Lock of Hair
hangs down their Cheeks above their Breast, the lower end tied with a
Knot of Ribbands....
The antient way of Fighting was by set Battles; and for Arms some had
broad two-handed Swords and Head-pieces, and others Bows and Arrows.
When all their Arrows were spent, they attack’d one another with Sword
in hand. Since the Invention of Guns, they are very early accustomed
to use them, and carry their Pieces with them where-ever they go:
They likewise learn to handle the broad Sword and Target. The _Chief_
of each Tribe advances with his Followers within shot of the Enemy,
having first laid aside their upper Garments; and after one general
Discharge, they attack them with Sword in hand, having their Target on
their left Hand (as they did at _Kelicranky_) which soon brings the
Matter to an Issue, and verifies the Observation made of ’em [by] your
Historians:
_Aut Mors cito, aut Victoria læta_.[53]
Certainly this is evidence of the employment of fixed designs and
special colours in the tartans, as well by the Islanders as by the
Highlanders of the mainland; and many have held it to settle the
question of their use as clan distinctions at that period. At all
events, it shows that district tartans were in use in Martin’s day, and
that their colourings furnished an indication of the localities whence
the wearers came.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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