Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices — John Shaqi
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive noticesStewart, Donald William
History
Old and rare Scottish tartans : $b with historical introduction and descriptive notices
Stewart, Donald William
Tartans -- Scotland
The Highland _field-dress_ of the men was of a coarser texture, and
thickened by fulling; it was called _cadda_ (_cath da’_, the war
colour), and was a _tartan_ of such colours as were least likely to
betray the wearer, among the woods and heaths, either to the game he
was in quest of, or to his enemies. The dyes were mostly extracted
from woad, when it could be got, and from heath-tops, the bark and
tender twigs of the alder, and other vegetable substances. As to
the ancient _form_ of the dress, nothing could be more simple: the
_gentlemen_, having less frequent occasion to use their _full suit_
as a _blanket_, wore a yellow shirt, a vest, trowsers, and mantle, of
the same fashion as their neighbours. In Ireland, a few centuries ago,
the _lower class_ seldom encumbered themselves with dress of any kind
within doors; and there is every reason to suppose that this was also
the case among their brethren in Scotland. When they went out, they
threw a light blanket round their shoulders, the upper part made tight
with skewers, and the lower gathered up into folds, which they secured
under the girdle, from which the sword, dagger, purse, &c., were
suspended; this they called _feile_, a word of the same origin with
the Scotish _fell_, English, _peel_; Old English, _pilche_; German
and Northern, _peltz_, _pels_, &c.; and the Latin, _pellis_, all
which signified an _external surface_, _skin_, or _covering_ of any
kind. _Skins_, in the modern acceptation of the term, were, no doubt,
the first _covering_; and the name was afterwards properly enough
applied to a covering of cloth. At night they took out the skewers,
unbuckled the girdle, and reduced the _feile_ to its primary form of
a blanket, to sleep in. The women wore a petticoat, or trowsers, of
skin, cloth, or what they could get, and a cloth thrown round their
bodies when they went out. As civilization advanced, a shirt, with a
tunic, or short jacket, was introduced; the plaits of the _feile_ were
rendered permanent by sewing, and the _plaid_, to be used either as a
mantle or blanket, was added. The _kilt_, _feilebeg_ (_little feile_),
or petticoat, now worn, has succeeded to the folded-up ends of the
original blanket; _it is all that remains of the ancient costume_, and
was reduced to its present form some time in the beginning of the last
century. The _bonnet_, or flat, blue thrum cap, is of a very modern
date, and was introduced from the Lowlands. The gentlemen of the
Highlands wore such hats and caps as were worn by gentlemen of their
times in neighbouring countries; and, in the days of our grandfathers,
the lower class of Highlanders were, by their Lowland neighbours (in
the north-east Lowlands, at least), denominated _humblies_, from their
wearing no covering on their head but their hair, which, at a more
early period, they probably matted and felted, for horror and defence,
as the Irish did in Queen Elizabeth’s time. The helmet-looking bonnet,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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