Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's StrollMartin, Benjamin Ellis
History
Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's Stroll
Martin, Benjamin Ellis
Chelsea (London, England) -- Description and travel
Just beyond, at Flood Street, begins Cheyne Walk; still, despite almost
daily despoiling, despite embankments and gas and cabs, the most
old-fashioned, dignified, and impressive spot in all London. Those of
its modest brick houses which remain have not been ruined by too many
modern improvements; they are prim and respectable, clad in a sedate
secluded sobriety, not at all of this day. Their little front gardens
are unpretending and almost sad. Between them and the street are fine
specimens of old wrought iron in railings and in gates, in last century
brackets for lamps, in iron extinguishers for the links they used to
carry. The name “Hans Sloane House” is wrought in open iron letters, in
the gate of No. 17; in others, the numbers alone are thus worked in the
antique pattern. “Manor House” has an attractive old plaster front; on
another a shining brass plate, dimly marked “Gothic House” in well-worn
letters, is just what we want to find there. In No. 4 died, on the night
of the 22nd December, 1880, Mrs. John Walter Cross, more widely known as
George Eliot. And in this same house lived for many years Daniel
Maclise, the painter of the two grandest national pictures yet produced
in England; “the gentlest and most modest of men,” said his friend
Charles Dickens. Here he died on the 25th of April, 1870, and from here
he was carried to Kensal Green.
[Picture: No. 4, Cheyne Walk]
In No. 15 lived for a long time that youthful genius, Cecil Lawson; whose
admirable works, rejected at one time by the Royal Academy, have been
hung in places of honour, since. One would be glad to have stepped from
his studio into that next door, No. 16, and to have seen Dante Gabriel
Rossetti at work there. {109} His house—now again known by its ancient
and proper title, “Queen’s House”—stands back between court and garden,
its stately double front bowed out by a spacious central bay, the famous
drawing-room on the first floor taking the whole width. This great bay,
as high as the house, is not so old, however; and must be an addition of
more recent years; for the house itself plainly dates from the days of
the Stuarts. Indeed, it shows the influence, if not the very hand, of
the admirable Wren; not only in the external architecture, but in the
perfect proportion to all its parts of the panelling, the windows, the
doorways within. All the hall-ways and the rooms, even to the kitchen,
are heavily wainscotted; and there mounts, up through the whole height of
the interior, a spiral staircase, its balustrade of finest hand-wrought
iron. So, too, are the railings and the gateway of the front courtyard,
as you see them in our sketch; and, while much of their dainty detail has
been gnawed away by the tooth of time, they still show the skill, the
patience, and the conscience of the workers of that earlier day. The
iron crown which once topped this gate has long since been taken away;
but we may still trace in twisted iron the initials “C.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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