Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's StrollMartin, Benjamin Ellis
History
Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's Stroll
Martin, Benjamin Ellis
Chelsea (London, England) -- Description and travel
It is a far cry from Dick Steele to Charles Lamb, yet the latter too
makes mention of the “Don Saltero Tavern” in one of his letters; saying
that he had had offered to him, by a fellow clerk in the India House, all
the ornaments of its smoking-room, at the time of the auction-sale, when
the collection was dispersed.
This was in 1807, and the place was then turned into a tavern; its
original sign—“Don Saltero’s, 1695,” in gold letters on a green
board—swinging between beams in front, until the demolition of the old
house only twenty years ago. {125}
* * * * *
A little farther on, just west of Oakley Street, on the outer edge of the
roadway of Cheyne Walk, stood, until within a few months, another old
sign, at which I was wont to look in delight, unshamed by the mute
mockery of the passing Briton, who wondered what the sentimental prowler
could see to attract him in this rusty relic. It stood in front of the
little public-house lately burned to the ground—“The Magpie and Stump:”
two solid posts carrying a wide cross-piece, all bristling with spikes
for the impalement of the climbing boy of the period; “MAGPIE AND STUMP,
QUOIT GROUNDS,” in dingy letters on the outer side, once plain for all
rowing men to read from the river; above was an iron Magpie on an iron
Stump, both decrepid with age, and a rusty old weathercock, too stiff to
turn even the letter _E_—alone left of the four points of the compass.
Between these posts might still be traced the top stone of an old
water-staircase, embedded now in the new-made ground which forms the
embankment garden here; just as you might have seen, only the other day,
the water-stairs of Whitehall Palace, which have now been carted away.
Up this staircase Queen Elizabeth has often stepped, on her frequent
visits to the rich and powerful Earl of Shrewsbury, her devoted subject
and friend. For, on the river slope, just back of Cheyne Walk here,
stood, until the second decade of this century, Shrewsbury House, another
one of Chelsea’s grand mansions. It was an irregular brick structure,
much gabled, built about a quadrangle; although but one storey in height
it was sufficiently spacious, its great room being one hundred and twenty
feet in length, wainscotted in finely carved oak, and its oratory painted
to resemble marble. In a circular room there was concealed a trap-door,
giving entrance to a winding stairway, which led to an underground
passage; believed to have opened on the river wall at low tide, and to
have twisted inland to the “Black Horse” in Chelsea, and thence to
Holland House, Kensington. Local gossip claims that it was used by the
Jacobites of 1745, and perhaps of 1715, too; for they made their
rendezvous by the river at this tavern, and here drank to their “King
over the water.” In the grounds of the “Magpie and Stump” is a wooden
trapdoor, through which I once descended by stone steps into a paved
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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