Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's StrollMartin, Benjamin Ellis
History
Old Chelsea: A Summer-Day's Stroll
Martin, Benjamin Ellis
Chelsea (London, England) -- Description and travel
as if weary of waiting for their owner to come home from the Dutch wars.
Through narrow archways we catch glimpses of trees and of gardens.
Turning down a rural lane we stroll into “The Vale,” and find a clump of
cottages, covered with vines, grown about with greenery; flowers blow,
cocks crow, an air of country unconcern covers the enclosure. The French
gardeners who came here in crowds in 1685, after the Revocation of the
Edict of Nantes, and set Chelsea all a-bloom with their nurseries, have
left to their heirs but a diminished domain; yet although Butterfly
Alley, sought by sauntering swells, has gone, King’s Road is still
countrified by its florists: their famous wistarias grow on the Hospital
walls and climb the houses of Cheyne Walk: you still find their fig-trees
in private gardens, their vines on old-fashioned trellises: they make
Chelsea streets all green and golden with their massed creepers through
summer and through autumn. In unexpected corners you will stumble on a
collection of cosy cottages, like Camera Square; there are a few rural
nooks still left; here and there a woodland walk; and in dairies hid
behind stone streets the cow is milked for you while you wait to drink
the warm milk.
And on the river bank, although the old Roman and the old Norman wall and
walk are replaced by the broad new Embankment and its smug gardens;
although the insolent affectations of the Queen Anne mania stare stonily
down on Cheyne Walk; all these have not been able to vulgarise this most
delightful of promenades. Starting from Chelsea Barracks we can still
walk under the old plane trees:—on our right the ancient Dutch-fronted
houses, so prim, so secluded, so reserved; on our left the placid flow of
the storied Thames, broadened here into Chelsea Reach:—to dingy, dear old
Battersea Bridge, and so on to Sand’s End. At each end of our walk are
the two small rivulets which bounded the old parish east and west; one is
now arched over and flows unseen beneath the tread of busy feet; the
other serves as a railway cutting and carries rattling trains: so the
old-time memories of the place now either flow underground, or are
modernised and become part of its daily life.
[Picture: The Embankment and Old Battersea Bridge]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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