Then we made ready to break camp and leave the snow and ice of the high
altitude for the milder climate of the valley; but the devil was in our
horses that day. It took many weary hours to catch the herd. We made a
series of corrals with lariats and pack ropes. By the time we had the
horses packed and ready to start, the sun had long passed the meridian.
The scout led the way down the mountain, while I followed on foot with
camera and tripod, driving the horses and leading my saddle horse
Kutenai, loaded with baggage, because one of our pack horses had
escaped us down the mountain. Then the contrary bell-mare ran into the
underbrush and bucked her pack loose, and the horse of the scout ran
away and threw him off. I found him lying senseless on the ground, with
blood flowing from nose and mouth. When he came to himself, he made
light of his accident; he said that he had been weakened by his former
life of exposure in the Indian wars.
We camped that night on the floor of the valley, in a park surrounded
by a dark forest of lodge-pole pine and spruce; the air was mild;
bunch-grass grew luxuriantly and many varieties of wild flowers—blue
camas, orchids with pale green flowers, and yellow columbine with
lovely pendant blossoms.
Our last day in the mountains, we followed a trail down the eastern
slope, a well-known Indian route across the Rocky Mountains, famous in
legend and war story. We passed through the long forest-covered valley
of Cutbank River, between two massive snow-covered mountain ranges, and
rode through the foothills with their lovely lakes and meadows, groves
of aspen and thickets of willows, crossing high grass-covered ridges,
closely following one another like great waves of the ocean.
Finally, from the crest of a ridge about twenty miles from the foot of
the mountains, we looked down upon a scene I shall never forget. On a
broad stretch of prairie and on the shore of a lake lay the tribal camp
of the Blackfoot; many hundreds of smoke-colored tepees, pitched in the
form of a great circle more than a mile in circumference. In an open
space near the center of camp was a throng of Indians, taking part in
the ceremony of the Sun Dance. The surrounding meadows were bright with
blue lupines, shooting stars, camas, and yellow sunflowers. Smoke from
the evening fires rose from the tepees. Many horses were feeding
contentedly on the hills. As we stood looking down at the great camp, a
light breeze carried distinctly the shouts of men and women, crying of
children, barking of many dogs, neighing of horses, and the rhythmic
beating of Indian drums in dances and ceremonial gatherings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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