Natural history -- Massachusetts; Natural history -- Outdoor books; Plymouth County (Mass.)
So sang Felicia D. Hemans in the early years of the last century
and she has been much derided by the thoughtless and irreverent
who have said that the landing of the Pilgrims was not on a stern
and rock-bound coast. Such scoffers evidently never sailed in by
White Horse beach and "Hither Manomet" when a winter northeaster
was shouldering the deep sea tides up against the cliff and a
surly gale snatched the foam from high-crested waves and sent it
singing and stinging inland. Could they have done this it would
have been easy to understand that the coast here is stern and
rock-bound in very truth. The rocks are not those of solid granite
ledges, continuous portions of the great earth's lithosphere of
which the coast is built farther north, at Scituate, Nahant,
Rockport and farther on; but it is rock-bound with massed granite
boulders, glacier rounded, water-worn, but inexpressibly stern.
All Plymouth is made up of the results of pilgrimage. How many
scores of fathoms deep the real Plymouth shore lies I do not know.
It is down there somewhere where it cooled into bathylithic crust
back in the gray dawn of time when the earth was made. There it is
part of the same ledge of which Scituate and Cohasset are built.
All above that is terminal moraine, rock detritus piled upon rock
foundation by the glacier. Plymouth Rock itself thus came joy
riding from some ledge up Boston way, alighting from this first
and greatest New England Transportation System only a few hundred
thousand years before Mary Chilton arrived to set foot upon it.
Tide and tempest grind pebbles to shifting sand and give and take
away beach and bar yearly, but they do not move the boulders very
fast. Manomet shore and even Plymouth beach are rock-bound with
these, large and small, today as they were when the Pilgrims
fought their desperate, sea-beset way by them through the dusk of
a winter northeaster and froze in safety under the lee of Clark's
Island.
He who would see Plymouth and the Pilgrim land about it as the
Pilgrims saw it may do so. Nature holds grimly onto her own and
sedulously heals the scars that man makes. Beat to windward in the
December twilight following that first trail of the Pilgrim
pinnace, listen to the sullen boom of the breakers on the cliff,
hear the growl of the surf-mauled pebbles on Plymouth beach, feel
the sting of the freezing spray and the bitter grip of the north
wind and you shall find this first Pilgrim trail the same today as
it was three hundred years ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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