We have alluded in our sketch of the earliest roads to the general
character of early travelling; but a few words in connection with roads
remain to be said on that subject. Travelling for pleasure—taking what
our grandfathers were wont to call the _Grand Tour_—were recreations
almost unknown to the ancient world. If Plato went into Egypt, it was
not to ascend the Nile, nor to study the monumental pictures of a land
whose history was graven on rocks, but to hold close colloquy on
metaphysics or divinity with the Dean and Chapter at Memphis. The Greeks
indeed, fortunately for posterity, had an incredible itch for Egyptian
yarns, and no sooner had King Psammetichus given them a general
invitation to the Delta, than they flocked thither from Athens and
Smyrna, and Cos and Sparta, and the parts of Italy about Thurium, with
their heads full of very particular questions, and often, to judge by
their reports of what they heard, with ears particularly open to any
answers the Egyptian clergy might please to give. Yet pleasure was not
the object of their journey. Science, as themselves said, curiosity, as
their enemies alleged, was the motive for their encountering perils by
land and water. Indeed we recollect only three travellers, either among
the Greeks or Romans, who can properly be considered as journeying for
pleasure. These were Herodotus—the prince of tourists, past, present, or
to come,—Paullus Æmilius, and Cæsar Germanicus.
Herodotus, there is reason to suspect, did not himself penetrate far into
Asia, but gathered many of his stories from the merchants and mariners
who frequented the wine-shops of Ephesus and Smyrna. Considering the
sources of his information, and the license of invention accorded to
travellers in all ages, the Halicarnassian was reasonably sceptical: and
generally warns his readers when he is going to tell them “a bouncer,” by
the words “so at least they told me,” or “so the story goes.” Paullus
Æmilius travelled like a modern antiquary and connoisseur. And for
beholding the master-pieces of Grecian art in their original splendour
and in their proper local habitations, never had tourist better
opportunities. A negotiation was pending between the Achæan League and
the Roman Commonwealth; and since the preliminaries were rather dull, and
Flaminius felt himself bored by the doubts and ceremonies of the
delegates, he left them in the lurch to draw up their treaty, and took a
holiday tour himself in the Peloponnesus. At that time not a single
painting, statue, or bas-relief had been carried off to Italy. The Roman
villas were decorated with the designs of Etrurian artists alone, or, at
the most, had imported their sculpture and picture galleries from Thurii
and Tarentum. Flaminius therefore gazed upon the entire mass of Hellenic
art; and the only thing he, unfortunately for us, neglected, was to keep
a journal, and provide for its being handed down to posterity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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