The Emperor Hadrian might have been added to the list of ancient
travellers in search of the picturesque, both because he visited nearly
every province of his empire, and because he expended good round sums
wherever he went, in restoring, re-edifying, or beautifying the public
edifices which the provincials had suffered to fall into decay. But
Hadrian’s journeys were primarily journeys of business; he wished, like
the Czar Nicholas, to see with his own eyes how matters went on, and at
times he had the felicity of catching a prefect in the very act of
filling his pockets and squeezing the provincials: we cannot therefore
put him to the account of those who journeyed for pleasure. Every Roman
who took any part in public affairs was, in fact, a great traveller. If
he served his sixteen or twenty years in the legions, and was not
enrolled in the household troops, he was singularly unlucky if his
company were not quartered in Asia, Africa, and the Danubian provinces.
If he became prætor or consul, a provincial government awaited him at the
close of his year of office; and it depended upon the billets drawn in
the Senate, whether he spent a year or two on the shores of the Atlantic,
or whether he kept staghounds on the frontiers of Dacia. Nearly every
Roman indeed had qualified himself before he was fifty to be a candidate
for the Travellers’ Club; and sometimes the fine gentleman, who declined
taking an active part in public affairs, found himself unexpectedly a
thousand miles from home, with an imperial rescript in his portmanteau
enjoining him not to return to Rome without special leave.
To such a compulsory journey was the poet Ovid condemned, apparently for
his very particular attentions to the Princess Julia. His exile was a
piece of ingenious cruelty. He was sent to Tomi, which was far beyond
the range of all fashionable bathing-places. The climate was atrocious;
the neighbourhood was worse; the wine was execrable and was often hard
frozen, and eaten like a lozenge, and his only society was that of the
barracks, or a few rich but unpolished corn-factors, who speculated in
grain and deals on the shores of the Euxine. To write verses from morn
to dewy eve was the unfortunate poet’s only solace: and he sent so many
reams of elegies to Rome, that his friends came at last to vote him a
bore, and he was reduced, for want of fitting audience, to learn the
Getic language, and read his lacrymose couplets to circles of gaping
barbarians.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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