Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of HospitalityEndell, Fritz August Gottfried
History
Old Tavern Signs: An Excursion in the History of Hospitality
Endell, Fritz August Gottfried
Inn signs; Taverns (Inns)
Demandant s’ils avoient du bon vin,
Et qu’on luy emplist du plus fin
Mais qu’il fust blanc et amoureux.”
We see that our poet-tramp hated adulteraters of wine (“les taverniers
qui brouillent nostre vin”) not less sincerely than his old Roman
colleague Horace. In his older days he regretted the dissipation of
his youth, sadly reflecting upon what a comfortable age he could have
now if ...
“J’eusse maison et couche molle!
Mais quoy? je fuyoye l’escolle,
Comme faict le mauvays enfant....
En escrivant cette parole
A peu que le cueur ne me fend.”
The tavern of the “Pomme de Pin” stood near the Madeleine Church--not
the famous one we all know, but an old building in the “cité,” Rue de
la Lanterne, which was pulled down in the time of the Revolution.
Rabelais loved the place and praised this pineapple higher than the
golden apple that young Paris once gave to Venus, thus creating
endless troubles among men and gods:--
“La Pomme de Pin qui vaut mieux
Que celle d’or, dont fut troublée
Toute la divine assemblée.”
Sainte-Beuve has called this tavern, connected with so many proud
names in French literature, “la véritable taverne littéraire, le vrai
cabaret classique,” a title which to-day is deserved by the “Cabaret
du Chat Noir,” the creation of such gifted artists as Henri Rivière,
Willette, and, last but not least, Steinlen, the painter of its sign.
Next in literary celebrity stands “La Croix de Lorraine,” where
Molière used to relax from his strenuous life as poet and actor and
get merry over the blinking glass, “assez pour vers le soir être en
goguettes.” Among the guests ponderous Boileau sometimes appeared,
although he seems to have taken his admonition in the “Art poétique,”
“connaissez la ville,” rather seriously and to have made quite
extensive studies of the Parisian public-houses. We find him in the
“Diable,” who had his quarters in those days very near the Sainte
Chapelle, and in “La Tête Noire,” a counterpart of “The Golden Head”
in Malines where Dürer lodged on his journey through the Netherlands.
It would be amusing to count how many immortal works have been created
over a tavern table. Have we not heard that in our days Mascagni wrote
the incomparable overture to his “Cavalleria Rusticana” on the little
marble table of a modern café? Racine is supposed to have written his
“Plaideurs” on the tavern table of the “Mouton Blanc” in Paris, and
this happy circumstance seems to have affected his style very
agreeably and to have made the play easier for a modern reader than
the solemn dramas which are so difficult to enjoy if one does not
happen to be a Frenchman. How attractive a place this “Mouton Blanc”
was we might imagine from the little rhyme:--
“Ah! que n’ai-je pour sépulture
Les Deux Torches ou le Mouton!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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