Old times : $b A picture of social life at the end of the eighteenth centuryAshton, John
History
Old times : $b A picture of social life at the end of the eighteenth century
Ashton, John
Great Britain -- Social life and customs
The latter part of the last century was noticeable for the great, and
grave, mutations which took place in masculine attire, and, most
particularly, during the times here treated of. Previously, the wig,
and dress (quaker cut) coat, had long had a successful run, but people
visited the Continent more, especially France, and brought back French
fashions, which at this time were particularly fantastic. The Prince
of Wales, too, delighted in fine dress, and was "_arbiter
elegantiarum_" of his sex. At every levée, and public appearance, his
dress was always expatiated on, and the "gilded youth" of the period,
dressed _up_ to him, and copied his manner, even to his bow.
We, in our days, cannot afford to jeer at the accompanying
illustration, when we see, in the advertisement sheets of some of our
periodicals, men's stays advertised, and even vividly depicted; and,
therefore, we must not throw the first stone of laughter at the
fashions of 1788.
Here we see the transition stage, the modification of the old courtly
wig, with its accompanying powder, and black silk bag for the _queue_,
now only to be seen pinned on to the coat collars of court officials,
and extremely magnificent _major domos_, &c., and, also, we see the
old court dress coat has now taken unto itself a collar, of that
exaggerated description which was so much in vogue during the next
twenty years. Frilled shirts, and ruffles, still existed, and the
curious custom of wearing two watches was the fashion. Here, again,
history has somewhat repeated itself in our modern double watch-chain,
except that now only one watch is worn, the other side guarding a
sovereign purse.
Brighthelmstone or Brighton--beloved of George the Magnificent,
whether as Prince, Regent, or King--was the place where the
fashionable youth congregated, and therefore we may take the following
extract from the _Morning Post_ (the _doyen_ of the Daily Press) of
18th September, 1788:--
"Brighton Dress.
"The fashionable bathing dress, at Brighton, is chiefly a pair of
_buff trousers_, with a slight jacket.
"This is adopted by all the young men of the place, and a number
of idle, sauntering _land lubbers_ meet the eye every morning on
the Steyne, that one cannot help wishing for a sturdy _pressgang_
to give them useful employment, or at least keep them out of
mischief.
"After breakfast they are accoutred for the sports of the field.
"The _sporting dress_ is a _brown jacket_, with a multiplicity of
pockets, on each side, that reaches from the bottom to the top,
so that, from this appearance, it is somewhat difficult to
determine which the fashionable tribe most resemble--a set of
grooms, or a company of smugglers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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