Old times : $b A picture of social life at the end of the eighteenth century — John Shaqi
Old times : $b A picture of social life at the end of the eighteenth centuryAshton, John
History
Old times : $b A picture of social life at the end of the eighteenth century
Ashton, John
Great Britain -- Social life and customs
One John Macdonald, a footman, who wrote his own biography, helps us
to fix a date when the use of them, by men, was so rare as to make the
user singular. He says that he had "a fine silk umbrella, which he
brought from Spain; but he could not, with any comfort to himself, use
it, the people calling out 'Frenchman! why don't you get a coach?'"
However, he "persisted for three months, till they took no further
notice of this novelty. Foreigners began to use theirs, and then the
English." Macdonald wrote in 1778. Jonas Hanway, the philanthropist,
who had travelled much in Persia and the East, is said to have been
the first Englishman who habitually carried an umbrella whilst walking
in the street. He died in 1786.
That it was not in general use in the year 1790, is evidenced by the
somewhat sneering title of a "Rain Beau," or one that was afraid of a
drop of rain. This illustration shews several modifications of fashion
besides the use of the umbrella. The cocked hat had gone out--and the
galling yoke of the "chimney pot" was being inaugurated. As yet it was
limp, of felt, but there is the hideous head covering that has
martyrised at least three generations.
Then we cannot but notice that the hair has lost all trace of the
wig--and is allowed to be worn "_au naturel_." A huge cravat swathes
the throat, the coat is cut shorter, and more fly-away than hitherto,
that knee breeches are disappearing, and pantaloons coming in, to be
in their turn superseded by the modern trouser. Lastly, the term
_Macaroni_, or _Jessamy_, is replaced by _Beau_--which will soon have
to give way to _Dandy_.
Jimmy Lincum Feadle shows us the Beau of 1791. Here the fashion
is evidently imported from France--loud coloured striped
coat--pantaloons, boots and all. The French Revolution was hastening
on, rapidly, to its culmination, and, the younger Whigs, before the
time came when they were utterly disgusted by the brutal excesses of
the French, copied the dress of the Revolutionary party.
[Illustration: A Jessamy.--1790.]
[Illustration: A Choice Spirit.]
[Illustration: A Buck.]
The accompanying illustration will show how far they succeeded. There
is an elaborately studied negligence about the coat, and a height
about the hat, which could never be of native production, whilst the
bludgeon must have belonged to some "Merveilleux," (the class whom
Bonaparte so cordially detested), and have been imported direct from
Paris. The supercilious look, and the mincing gait, are warranted
truly Parisian, and I have very little doubt but that Isaac Cruikshank
sketched him from the life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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