It is to be noticed that where men cannot satisfy this emotion by
the spectacle of distant hills, or by the presence of nearer ones
which they can climb upon occasion, they remedy the defect either in
their architecture or with their trees. The people of Northern France
lacked height in their landscape, and in their forests the trees were
neither of the sort nor stature which commonly satisfy the need of
which I speak. Their architecture supplies it. It has reached its most
tremendous expression in Beauvais, its most stately in Flanders. No
man well understands what height can be in architecture unless he
has watched one of the great Flemish steeples from a vantage point
upon another. They are sufficiently amazing when you see them, as they
were meant to be seen, from the flat pastures outside the city walls.
But where most you can appreciate the way in which they make up the
impression of the Netherlands is from a platform such as that of Delft,
halfway up the tower just below the bells. You look out to an horizon
which is that of a misty sea, land absolutely level, and here and there
the line between earth and sky is cut by these shafts of human effort
whose purpose it is--and they achieve it--to give high places to a
plain. So also Strasburg stands up in that great river plain of which
it is the centre, and so Salisbury towers above the central upland of
South England. And so Chichester over the deep loam of the sea plain
of Sussex. You will further note that as you approach the mountains
this attempt grows less in human effort, and is replaced by something
else. At Bordeaux on the great flat sweep of the river, with the level
vineyards all round about, you have a mighty spire, sprung probably
from English effort and looking down the river as a landmark and a
feature in the sky. But close against the Pyrenees, nay when, two days’
walking south of the city, you first begin to see those mountains,
height fails you in architecture. You have not got it at Dax, nor in
the splendid and deserted aisles of Auch, nor in the complicated detail
of St. Bertrand; nor is there any example of it in Perpignan; but at
Narbonne again, where what you have to look at are the flat approaches
of the sea, height comes in in a peculiar way; it is the height not
of towers, but of walls. It has been remarked by many that effect of
this kind is lacking in Italy; but in Italy, wherever you may be, you
have the mountains. South of the Sierra Guadarama there in no attempt
to diversify the line of the horizon in this fashion. There is nothing
in Madrid to which a man looks up in order to satisfy this need for
the high places, nor in the churches of the villages round about.
The millions spent upon the Escorial were spent with no such object;
but then, south of those mountains, the range stands up in a steep
escarpment and everywhere is master of the plain. To the North, where
they sink away more gradually and form no crest upon which the eye can
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