repose, at once man supplies for himself the uplifting of the face
which his soul must have, and the glorious vision of Segovia is proof
of it. The castle and the cathedral of that famous city are like a tall
ship riding out to sea; or they are like a man preaching from a rock
with uplifted hands; or they are like the miraculous appearance of some
divine messenger standing facing one above the steeps of the hill.
It is so in all the places I can remember; it is so in the Valley of
the Ebro, where Saragossa raises a tall nave and the tall columns of
the Pilar, whereas, if you go northward and begin to see the hills
this feature fails. It is not apparent in Huesca; Jaca, right under the
High Pyrenees, has none of it. I can remember exceptions; one place,
among the most famous in Europe, which was built for a mountain kingdom
and under the influence of mountaineers, though it stands in a plain.
And that is Brou, which seems to be made for mountains rather than
for the plain. And there are many modern errors in the matter due to
the copying of some style pedantically and to the absence of native
inspiration. The chief of these is Lourdes, whose hideous basilica
ought never to have attempted height in the midst of those solemn
hills. But the history of man when he is dealing with his shrines is a
history of perpetual betterment, and some day Lourdes will be replaced
by a much worthier thing. The crypt is already excellent, and many
good changes in European building have begun with the crypt. There
are errors, I say, of this sort due to the modern divorce between
personality and production, and there are accidents, though rare, like
that of Brou, where a mountain building is set in a plain, though
hardly ever a building of the plains in the mountains. But for the
most part, and taking Europe as a whole, the rule holds good. Consider
the church called L’Epine. It is not high, but every line of it is
designed to give the effect of height, and the farther you are from it
the more it seems to soar, and the greyer it gets the more finely is it
drawn upwards. It stands in the roll of those vast Catalaunian plains
where twice the fate of Europe has been decided; where first Attila
was rolled backwards, and where more than a thousand years after the
armies destined to destroy the Revolution failed. It is the mark and
the centre of that plain. But as you get towards the Mountain of Rheims
on the north, the Argonne upon the east, the note of height in stone is
withdrawn. The Argonne is low, the Mountain of Rheims, though high and
noble, is hardly a true mountain, but each uplifts the face.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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