Among the many misfortunes of men confined to this island, in the great
cities of it, it may be counted a good fortune that they have, more
than most men bound by modern industry, the opportunity of the high
places. Lancashire especially has them at its doors, and anyone who
will talk much to Lancashire folk will find how greatly the presence of
the moors still enters into their lives. Notably is this true of the
Peak just to the east of the great industrial plain, and the sense of
height and the satisfaction of it is perhaps nowhere more splendidly
met than by the spectacle of that plain beneath a winter sunset as one
sees it from the height of the road above Glossop, if it be a Sunday
evening when the smoke is not dense, because for twenty-four hours the
factories have been silent. The smoke then hangs in wreaths like light
clouds against the sunset and one perceives in a very marvellous and
sudden fashion beneath one the life of industrial England. It is an
aspect of the country not easily forgotten. And everywhere Englishmen
have presented to them this effect of height within a smaller compass
than the men of other European nations. For in the other nations men
are either of the mountains or of the plains. But here the isolated and
numerous masses of old rocks in Wales, in Cumberland, and just north
of the Midlands, and the sharp escarpments of the five ranges of the
chalk that radiate from Salisbury Plain, and the isolated ridge of the
Malverns, and the wall of the Cotswolds over the Vale of Severn, make
it so that nearly all those who live on this island, and especially
those who live in the busiest part of it, have their line of hills
before them. East Anglia and the Fens are an exception, and much of the
Valley of the Thames as well. And here comes in the lack of London.
London has no high places. It is the chief misfortune in the aspect
of the city. It was not always so. Popular instinct was very powerful
here. Since the Surrey hills had not their escarpment turned towards
the Thames, and since looking nowhere round could the Londoner get
height, he made it for himself, and the Gothic London of the Middle
Ages was a mass of spires, chief and glorious above which was the
highest spire in all Europe, higher than Strasburg and higher than
Cologne, old St. Paul’s. It stood up on its hill above the river, and
gave unity to all that scheme of spires below. Neglect began the ruin,
the Great Fire did the rest, and height in London has disappeared. The
tall houses and narrow gorges of streets that are the characteristic
of Paris and of Edinburgh are unknown to London. Here and there the
sense of which I speak is satisfied. Coming up Ludgate Hill, for
instance, and seeing the mass of St. Paul’s above it, or in one place
where, as you come out of a narrow Westminster street, the upshooting
of the repetitive lines of Victoria Tower suddenly strike you. But as
a whole height is lacking here. Nor in so vast a place, now fixed in
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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