An Armenian Monastery—A large garden—Farms belonging to the Monks—The Bishop—A fast day—The Turkish finance—The Armenian merchants in Sivas—The telegraph employed by them—The rise and fall in _caime_—The breath of scandal—A former Governor of Sivas—A suspicious case—His Eminence cannot marry—Are Protestant Bishops allowed to marry?—The chapels belonging to the Monastery—A curious altar—A strange tradition—The martyrs of Sivas—A picture of one of the Kings of Armenia—The Kings and the Church—Things are very different now—Privileges of the Monks—The Russian war with Persia—An Armenian General—Hassan, Khan of Persia—Sugar—How to make a large fortune 307 CHAPTER XXIX. The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—The Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass replaced by alabaster—A raid on an Armenian village—The robbers caught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—An accident—The Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed's appetite—A comparison between Mohammed and Osman 316 CHAPTER XXX. Snow—The path covered by it—The scenery—Upset in a snowdrift—Nearly down a chasm—Probing the ground—A consultation—Teaching my followers manners—May he die of the plague—A baggage-horse knocked up—Yarbasan—A dirty village—The farmer committing himself to Providence—Visiting his friends—The Zaptiehs—Their remarks—The Giaour threatened to beat us—The Inglis giaour is different to the Armenian giaour 325 CHAPTER XXXI. The river Dumrudja—How to cross the river?—A waterfall in the neighbourhood—Thanksgivings—Crossing the mountain—A house of refuge—Divriki—Its appearance—The number of houses—The river Tchalt Tchai—The Captain—His evolutions—Lor! what a cropper—Serve him right, sir—A Astley's performance—My host—Mines in the neighbourhood—People with brains—Houses formerly built of hewn stone—Cause of the decline of the Turkish power—Wives chosen for their looks—How to breed a good foal—A Turk's opinion of European women—They uncover their faces—What ridiculous creatures they must be—The Citadel—The Persians—The Greek fire—The view of Divriki—Sport—A rifle used as a shot gun—One of your best shots—The Kurds—Gunpowder—It is manufactured by the Kurds—All Powder is sent from Constantinople—Cost to the Government of cartridges—The Pacha of Sivas—His astrologer—Christians who are usurers—Turkish families ruined 333 CHAPTER XXXII.