On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)Burnaby, Fred
History
On Horseback Through Asia Minor, Volume 1 (of 2)
Burnaby, Fred
Turkey -- Description and travel
In consequence of this I determined to follow the advice of an
Englishman who knew Turkey well, and take a Mohammedan servant, who
could speak no other language than his own. In that case he would be
less likely to have learned any bad habits from the Armenians, and at
the same time I should be compelled to speak to him in Turkish, and
thus improve my knowledge of that language.
The next morning a Turk came to the hotel, and offered himself for the
situation. He was dressed in the Circassian style, and wore a short
brown serge jacket, dotted across the breast with empty cartridge
cases. His head was covered by a red fez or cap, encircled by a green
turban. A loose pair of light blue trousers, fastened at the waist by
a crimson sash, and a pair of boots, half-way up the knee, completed
his attire. He was a tall, fine-looking fellow, and said that he had
previously been coachman to a Pacha, that he was a good groom, and
would be faithful to me as an Arab steed to his Arab master. It was
a pretty speech, but as I had seen some horses in the desert which
invariably kicked whenever their master approached them, it did
not produce the effect upon my mind which probably the faithful man
desired. However I was in a hurry to get a servant; so I agreed to take
the fellow, and give him 4_l._ per month and his food. In the meantime
he said that he knew of some horses for sale, and that he would bring
them to the hotel in the course of a few days.
I had previously ascertained that my best plan would be to purchase
a stud in Constantinople. In many parts of my proposed journey I
should be off the postal track, and then it would be difficult to hire
any horses—indeed it would sometimes be impossible, as the natives
in certain parts of Kurdistan make use of buffaloes as a means of
locomotion. I had once ridden a cow during an African journey. The
motion is very uncomfortable; I had no wish to repeat the experiment
with a buffalo.
Later on an invitation arrived for me to breakfast with Mr. Schuyler,
the distinguished diplomatist, and the author of the highly-interesting
volume, "Turkistan." On arriving at his house I found some of the
guests already assembled. Amongst others, there were Mr. Gallenga, the
_Times'_ correspondent, and Mr. White, our consul at Belgrade.
Presently there was a ring at the bell, and who should come in but
Mr. Sala, the well-known correspondent of the _Daily Telegraph_.
His arrival was quite an unexpected pleasure for our host. Mr. Sala
had only reached Constantinople half an hour before, and had come to
us straight from the harbour. He had left England about three weeks
previously, and first had gone to St. Petersburg. Here he had been
introduced to several Russian journalists. He related in a very amusing
way their conversation about England's policy towards Turkey, an
account of which Mr. Sala had duly posted to the _Daily Telegraph_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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