Chemical apparatus; Electroplating; Glass blowing and working; Glass coatings; Glass grinding and polishing; Lampwork; Mirrors
For this operation time must be allowed if the operator's hands are
steady enough to permit of it; the shoulder should form partly by the
glass sinking in and partly by the process of drawing the hot glass
out. A shoulder properly prepared is shown in the sketch. Beginners
generally make the neck too thin on large tubes, and too thick on
smaller ones. There ought to be no great difference in thickness of
glass between the neck on the larger tube, and the smaller tube. The
diameters should be as nearly as possible alike.
Having drawn down the larger tube to a neck, take it out of the flame,
and as it cools pull and turn till the neck is of the right thickness
and is perfectly straight, i.e. make the final adjustment outside the
flame, and to that end have the neck rather too thick (as to glass)
before it is taken out. It is not necessary to wait till the neck
gets cold before the end can be cut off. Make a scratch as before--this
will probably slightly damage the temper of the file knife, but
that must be put up with. Hold the tube against the edge of the
table, so that the scratch is just above the level of the rim, and
strike the upper part a smart blow with the handle of the glass knife
rather in the direction of its length. [Footnote: A bit of hoop iron
nailed against the side of the table is a very convenient arrangement,
and it need not project appreciably above the general level of the
rim.]
Of course this applies to a tube where economy has been exercised and
the end is short. If the tail is long enough to form a handle, the
tube may be pulled apart as before. As a rule a temporary joint
between a tube and a rod is not strong enough to enable the shoulder
to be broken at the scratch by mere pulling. The ends to be welded
must be broken off very clean and true. Subsequent operations are to
be carried out as already described.
Sec. 23. The above operations will be easily performed on tubes up to
half an inch in diameter, if they are not too long. It is the length
of tube, and consequent difficulty in giving identity of motion with
the two hands, which make the jointing of long tubes difficult. There
are also difficulties if the tubes are very thin, have a very fine
bore or a very large diameter.
All these difficulties merely amuse a good glass-blower, but to an
experimenter who wants to get on to other things before sufficient
skill is acquired (in the movement of the hands and arms) the
following method is recommended. First, use flint glass. Then,
assuming that any drawing down has to be done, do it as well as
possible, for on this the success of the method to be described
especially depends. Be sure that the tubes to be welded are cut off
clean and are as nearly as may be of the same size at the point of
junction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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