Missions -- Uganda; Negrillos; Uganda -- Description and travel
Lake Naivasha seemed scarcely large enough to satisfy our inordinate
thirst as we pulled up; we were not a bit polite when tea was generously
doled out to us by the Europeans stationed there, for none of us refused
a fourth and fifth cup, even when we saw the supply was running short.
I got very behindhand in my journal while on the road. Never had I been
successful in keeping one for longer than a week; on the seventh day it
had become so intolerably dull that Dryasdust must even have yawned. Of
course, Africa supplies you with plenty of material, but the methodical
mind and will power are somehow wanting. Let me tell you why. At 4.0
a.m. daily one wakes up with a start, for as the sun does not rise till
6.0, night still seems to rest heavily on the land and on one’s eyelids.
But the caravan leader is beating a drum, accompanying it with a shrill
falsetto call to rise; and if one dares to stay rubbing the sleep out of
the eyes, the porters are fumbling away at the tent ropes, and before
there is time to complete one’s toilette, the whole tent flops down like
a closed umbrella. A truly undignified exit is made by a dishevelled
figure, and one turns up while breakfast is being served round the camp
fire on tin crockery.
In the dusk we push off; a real expert rider you must be to dodge in and
out of the porters who are already filing along on the narrow path, and
have a happy knack of swinging round at the sound of the bicycle bell
just as you pass—the tent-pole carrier was a veritable man-trap, and
more than once pitched machine and rider into the ditch. I am sure I
shall never complain again of English or even Scotch roads; the ridges
we have ridden over (often ending in a swamp) have helped to strengthen
one’s nerves and powers of balance. We generally reach camp before our
porters, and then seek out some shelter till our tents arrive. It is a
quaint sight to watch the long line of the caravan coming in; the men
become very excited at sight of the halting place, and as the first man
who carries a drum beats it with all his might, swinging a zebra tail
round and round his head, the men all break into song and a slow dance,
which gradually increases in volume and speed until the 65lb. box on the
head is quite forgotten, the body springs about in mid-air, and finally
throws itself down with a shout of ecstasy and an eloquent outburst of
self-praise and congratulation.
[Illustration: A GROUP OF MASAIS.
_Photo by D. V. F. Figueira, Mombasa._]
When tents have been pitched and bodily restoratives have been applied
in the form of cool baths, a good meal and a sleep, the only possible
hour for journalling has come. But who could resist the desire to peep
outside the tent door, and then into the new and fascinating features of
folk, animals, birds, and country that surround the colony of tents? So
my pen remained idle for many days on the road, and as we were constantly
going forward, it was not easy to go back and pick up broken threads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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