At Bihunga we left behind all human habitation. Our first halt after leaving it was under a rock at a height of eight thousand feet. From the almost intolerable silence it seemed as if we had also got beyond all animal life. We listened in vain for the insect’s hum, the bird’s chirrupping, or the squabbling of the monkeys. However, similar welcome sounds had not entirely ceased, for very occasionally a night bird hooted, a rat squeaked, or a solitary fly cheered us with its living presence. Our camping space was decidedly cramped, and the tent felt very insecure, for it was impossible to drive poles or pegs into the rocks; the canvas merely had to be balanced by tying the ropes to large stones. Water was also very scarce, and, in spite of a consuming thirst after our hot climb, we were obliged to content ourselves with two cups of tea and half that amount for a wash down. The region of Bamboo Forests was next reached, and it was disappointing to find that what looked so attractive from a distance beneath when seen from within was nothing but a monotonous stretch of stiff brown sticks surmounted by masses of green grass. The bamboos had completely monopolised the soil to the exclusion of almost every other plant. For hours we were pushing our way through these obstinate poles that would not bend or budge an inch to let us through. Men went before to slash them down, and as we stumbled over the broken stems my poor skirt was literally torn into shreds, even though it had been shortened eight inches the previous day. Emerging from bamboo-land we crossed a stretch of marsh and found ourselves surrounded by frowning bare rock peaks which rose almost perpendicularly from where we stood. Pointing up to a spot about one thousand feet above us, our guide indicated the only possible halting place. Although so near, it took us over two hours to reach; with the utmost caution we had to drag our bodies up the sheer face of the rocks. At one place we had recourse to a rough native ladder formed of two long bamboo poles with rungs of the same tied with grass. This was placed against an absolutely smooth-faced stretch of rock, where for a space of ten to fifteen feet no hold could be obtained. To add to the danger, strong mountain streams were pouring down over the rocks, not only soaking us through, but making our grip less secure. Certainly I had never before been in such a critical position; it was quite impossible to get a real firm footing, and one slip might have resulted in dragging others down into the seething waters and rocks that lay beneath. [Illustration: KICUCEI CAMP.]