On reaching the top, vegetation assumed an entirely new form. The only trees were gigantic heaths, but it was almost impossible to distinguish them, for the stems were covered with a thick moss, which in some places was 12 inches deep. In colouring it varied from a dark brown to a light golden or deep red. The trees were almost entirely denuded of leaf, and festoons of whitish lichen hung from branch to branch. The ground was very marshy, for the hills that enclosed us emptied down into it numerous small torrents. About fifteen square yards of dry land was found on which to erect our tent and hang up the clothes to dry. Our stout marching boots had already succumbed to the rough usage, and we each took a strong needle and thread to see who could turn out the neatest job. In the evening the rain poured down upon us in a deluge, and continued all night till it even penetrated the double roof of our canvas waterproof tent; besides this, as we were now at an altitude of 10,000ft., the cold was indescribable. Each breath we took seemed to cut at the chest like a knife, and, in spite of blankets and an eider-down, it was impossible to sleep with the damp piercing cold. All the following day the rain continued and kept us prisoners at this indescribably cheerless spot. I had time to overhaul the shattered skirt; it looked a hopeless task, for it really would not bear shortening again. The advice was then given me to cut it up and put it into bands under the knees, which I acted upon on hearing the toughest bit of climbing was yet to come. When we were at last able to push on, and the garment was worn with puttees and a football jersey, I felt like an evoluted man. For three hours from Kicucu camp we did not once touch the ground; during the whole of that time we were slowly climbing with hands and feet over fallen heather that for scores of years must have lain in that position, only becoming more seasoned with time. The thick moss that still clung on to the slender bark was very deceptive, and, when mistaken for firm soil, broke away from the tree and one suddenly found oneself slipping down, down between branches and barks; fortunately there was a depth of fallen forest underneath, and this saved me from disappearing beyond the armpits. These heaths grow on the rocks in a very thin surface soil which is not able to support them when they reach great heights, consequently the tree falls, and in this way the irregular jagged rocks have been bridged and joined up by the continually increasing amount of timber thrown across. [Illustration: MULUKU GLACIER.]