The cold is intense, the spirit thermometer indicating from thirty to
sixty below zero. We have seen the mercury frozen as solid as lead for
weeks together. For months milk is frozen into cakes like marble. We
used to carry large pieces of it wrapped up in a newspaper, and when at
the camp-fire we desired a little in our cup of tea, we cut it off with
an axe. As will be seen from this we had about seven months of bright
cold winter. During all that time there was not a thaw, the snow was
never soft, and there was no dampness in the air or under foot. Soft
deer skin moccasins are very much superior to civilised boots or shoes
under such conditions.
There are no roads in that vast country. The frost King freezes up
every lake and stream, and hardens into adamant every muskeg and quaking
bog. The snow covers everything with its great mantle of beauty, and
makes it possible to travel on snow-shoes or by dog-train through vast
regions absolutely impassable in the summer months. Horses or other
large animals, are absolutely worthless for travel in such regions. The
snow is a great leveller. It fills up many a dangerous pitfall and puts
such a cushion on the logs and rocks, that upsets or falls are only
laughed at by the dog-travellers as they merrily dash along. The only
drawbacks to a tumble down a steep declivity of some hundreds of feet,
as once befell the writer, were the laughter of his comrades, and the
delay incident to digging him out of the snowdrift at the bottom, which
was anywhere from twenty to thirty feet deep. These accidents and
delays were not frequent; and, although there were hardships and
sufferings, there were many things to instruct and interest, and to
break the monotony of winter travelling in that lonely land.
In the coldest, brightest, sunniest days, the fitful mirage played its
strange antics with distant landscapes, and at times brought within near
vision places many miles away. Sometimes circle within circle appeared
around the sun, until as many as four were distinctly visible; each
circle at times having within it four mock suns--sixteen mock suns
visible at the same time was a sight worth going a long distance to see.
Strange to say, the Indians dreaded the sight of them, as they declared
they were always the forerunners of blizzard storms; and the more vivid
these sun-dogs, as they called them, the more dreadful would be the
storm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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