His letters to me, however, were not devoid of personal reactions. These
commonly took an aesthetic turn. An early letter from Rome had a good
deal to say about the Baroque. He met it everywhere; it was an
abomination; it tried his soul. Fontana and Maderna, the Gog and Magog
of architecture, had flanked the portals of art and had let through a
hideous throng of artificialities and corruptions.... The word "Baroque"
was new to me, and I looked it up. I learned that it described, not a
current movement, as I had supposed, but an influence which had
exhausted itself nearly three hundred years ago. But it was still recent
and real to Raymond. And I learned, further, that this style had modern
champions who could say a good word for it. In any event, it might be
accepted calmly as a valuable and characteristic link in the general
historic chain.
In another letter he was ecstatic over the Gothic brickwork of Cremona.
It was so beautiful, he said in as many words, that it made his heart
ache; not often did Raymond let himself go like that. Eager to follow
his track--and to understand, if possible, his heart, however peculiar
and baffling--I looked up, in turn, North Italian brickwork. This was
twice three hundred years old. But it had stirred other modern hearts
than Raymond's; for an English aesthete had tried (and almost succeeded)
to impose it on his country as a living mode. "Very well," I said;
"Italian brickwork may reasonably be accepted as a modern interest."
Raymond, before descending to Italy, had spent some months in Paris.
Circumstances had enabled him to frequent a few studios, and his first
letter to me from that city had been rather technical and "viewy."
Incidentally, he had seen something of the students, and had found
little to approve, either in their manners or their morals. He left
Paris without reporting any moral infractions of his own and settled
down for some stay in Florence. He was studying the language further, he
reported: a language, he said, which was easy to begin, but hard to
continue--the longer you studied the less you really knew. However, he
knew enough for daily practical purposes. His _pension_ was pleasant;
small, and the few visitors were mostly English.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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