XVIII. IRISH EMIGRATION AND COMMERCE 247 XIX. IRISH CHARACTERISTICS AND CUSTOMS 260 XX. WICKLOW AND WEXFORD 268 XXI. THE LAND OF RUINED CASTLES 283 XXII. THE IRISH HORSE AND HIS OWNER 300 XXIII. CORK AND BLARNEY CASTLE 312 XXIV. REMINISCENCES OF SIR WALTER RALEIGH 330 XXV. GLENGARIFF, THE LOVELIEST SPOT IN IRELAND 343 XXVI. THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY 366 XXVII. INTEMPERANCE, INSANITY, AND CRIME 391 XXVIII. THE EDUCATION OF IRISH FARMERS 404 XXIX. LIMERICK, ASKEATON, AND ADARE 417 XXX. COUNTY GALWAY AND RECENT LAND TROUBLES 432 XXXI. CONNEMARA AND THE NORTHWEST COAST 443 XXXII. WORK OF THE CONGESTED DISTRICTS BOARD 459 INDEX 475 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS An Ancient Celtic Cross at Glendalough _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE Queenstown 4 The Rock of Cashel, County Tipperary 8 Holycross Abbey, County Tipperary 10 St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin 16 The Tomb of Strongbow, Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin 32 The Earl of Aberdeen, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in 1906-9 34 The Countess of Aberdeen 36 The Four Courts, Dublin 48 The Castle, Dublin; Official Residence of the Lord Lieutenant and Headquarters of the Government 54 The Customs House, Dublin 78 The Bank of Ireland, Old Parliament House, Dublin 80 St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 90 Quadrangle, Trinity College, Dublin 98 Main Entrance, Trinity College, Dublin 102 Sackville Street, Dublin, showing Nelson's Pillar 116 Lighthouse at Howth, Mouth of Dublin Bay 122 Portumna Castle, County Galway; the Seat of the Earl of Clanricarde 138 Maynooth College, County Kildare 144 Carton House, Maynooth, County Kildare; the Residence of the Duke of Leinster 152