Queenstown makes a brave appearance from the deck of a ship in the bay,
even before sunrise. It lies along a steep slope, with green fields and
forests on either side, and the most conspicuous building is a beautiful
gothic cathedral, with an unfinished tower, that was commenced in 1868
and has cost nearly a million dollars already. The hill is so steep that
a heavy retaining wall has been built as a buttress to make the
cathedral foundations secure, and the worshipers must climb a winding
road or a sharp stairway to reach it. A little farther along the
hillside is an imposing marine hospital and group of barracks, from
which we could hear the bugles sounding "reveille" as we landed. There
are compensations to those who are marooned at Queenstown before
daylight, and one of them is the picturesque surroundings of the
ancient homes of the O'Mahony's, who ruled this part of Ireland for many
generations long ago.
The harbor is like an amphitheatre, entirely inclosed by hills, three
hundred or four hundred feet high, that are covered with frowning
battlements. Every hilltop is strongly fortified. The bay, which is four
miles long and about two miles wide, contains several islands, upon
which the government has built warehouses, repair shops, shipyards, and
the other appurtenances of a naval station, guarded by Fort Carlisle,
Fort Camden, and other modern fortresses. Upon Haulbowline Island is a
depot for ammunition and other ordnance stores, and the pilot told me
that on Rocky Island near by were two magazines--great chambers chiseled
out of the living rock by Irish convicts who were formerly confined
there--and that each of them contained twenty-five thousand barrels of
powder belonging to the British navy.
Queenstown has many handsome estates overlooking the sea and the bay
from the hills that inclose the harbor. There is an old ruined castle at
Monkstown that was built in 1636 by Anastasia Gould, wife of John
Archdecken, while her husband was at sea. She determined that she would
surprise him when he returned home. So she hired a lot of men to build a
castle with only the material they found on the estate, and made an
agreement with them that they should buy the food and clothing necessary
for their families from herself alone. It is the first record of a
"company store" that I know of. When the castle was finished and the
accounts were balanced it was found that the cost of the labor had been
entirely paid for by the profits of this thrifty woman's mercantile
transactions, with the sum of four pence as a balance to her credit. Her
husband returned in due time and was so delighted with his new home that
he never went to sea again. His estimable wife died in 1689, and was
buried in the churchyard of Team-pulloen-Bryn, where this story is
inscribed with her epitaph.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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