Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal IslandsElliott, Henry Wood
History
Our Arctic province : $b Alaska and the Seal Islands
Elliott, Henry Wood
Alaska -- Description and travel
The neatness of the villages which we have just visited at Kadiak
and Cook’s Inlet has no counterpart in Belcovsky, where, in spite of
its much greater trade and wealth, the filth and neglect everywhere
manifested among the barraboras and their interiors, are in harsh
and disagreeable contrast, while the taciturn, swelled heads of the
inmates speak volumes for the strength of that carousal during the
night prior to your arrival. A small frame house is pointed out as
the school, where it seems that those natives actually sustain a
teacher and send a large percentage of their children. It declares
that these people are not vicious at heart, though they cannot resist
intemperance. They read and write, however, principally in the
Aleutian dialect, using an alphabet prepared for their race by the
Greek Catholic missionaries in 1810-25. But, while the large capture
of sea-otters and consequent flow of the traders’ money and supplies
into this settlement brings these people greater wealth than that
showered elsewhere, yet the real physical misery of those natives of
Belcovsky proves the truth and points the moral of a very old saying
which declares that riches alone do not bring contentment to the
human mind, be it ever so high or ever so low.
A strong south wind is springing up, and you are told by the
skipper that you must get aboard as quickly as possible, for it is
sure destruction to his vessel if she lies long at anchor in the
offing, since the sunken rocks and open roadstead are dangerous.
The little schooner is rapidly put under way, “beating out” in the
freshening gale and headed for Oonga, which is the next settlement
in importance, about fifty miles east. Sailing-vessels never come
into Belcovsky, except those of rival traders, because it is the most
risky port that the mariner has to make in all these waters of Alaska.
Before leaving the sea-otter emporium it is well to call attention
to the fact that at a small indentation of this same peninsula,
twenty-nine miles to the northward, is a settlement made up entirely
of the poor relatives of these Belcovsky people, some forty or fifty
souls, who, however, take a great pride in their superior health
and morality. They have a little chapel, and enjoy much better
opportunities for hunting bear and reindeer. These animals, the
reindeer leading, always followed by the bears, come down at regular
intervals in large herds from a great moorland to the northeast,
travelling on a well-beaten “road” or track, which leads clear to
the westernmost end of the peninsula, where those bovine road-makers
plunge into and cross the narrow Krenitzin Straits to renew their
land march and scatter all over the rugged and extended tundra and
mountain sides of Oonimak Island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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